Traction bars- UMI vs CPP vs Caltrac, etc

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by ULTM8Z, Sep 18, 2020.

  1. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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  2. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    The umi 71 camaro last weekend
     
  3. czizza

    czizza Veteran Member

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    Had SSM Bars like slappers, then got the Calvert Caltracs and they are awesome and a lot better. If you preload your suspension it will also stiffen up your suspension around turns as well. They are not just for drag racing.
     
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  4. dave@ztech

    dave@ztech Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    What tires are you using, and what transmission? Really nice run!!
     
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  5. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I vote for CalTrack bars. Everyone that I've talked to over the years said they're the easiest to set up and work.
     
  6. Coadster32

    Coadster32 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    That guy can drive!!
     
  7. GoldenOne7710

    GoldenOne7710 Equal Opportunity Offender Lifetime Gold Member

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    I've had both. I used the Caltracs first. I ended up giving them away due to the harsh ride. Put on SAL's and never regretted it. Car launches equally as well with both, but the street ride quality of the SAL's on MY car was night and day. Your mileage may vary.
     
  8. BonzoHansen

    BonzoHansen Administrator Lifetime Gold Member

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    That's the umi camaro. Iirc its a magnum and bfg rivals.
     
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  9. DB Z28

    DB Z28 Veteran Member

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    Most of them look like they tried to copy Calverts design to make it better
     
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  10. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I use this tuning / set up info for my Calvert racing Cal Trac bars


    FRONT: make sure the front control arm are not binding. this is one of the biggest issues. you can do this with after market bushings or control arms or just elbow grease. the control arms should fall on there own without having to push them down. the front springs need to be of a drag style that will give you the best weight tranfer you can AND MUST HAVE ATLEAST 5" OF UPWARD TRAVEL IN THE FRONT END. shocks should be of a good drag style i like d/a afco's. AFTER DOING ALL THE ABOVE SET THE SHOCKS AT FULL LOOSE FOR THE FIRST FEW RUNS.



    2. FOR THE REAR same thing binding is the number 1 issue most the time it's in the shackels and the front leaf spring mounting bolt.. every car i see the bolts are over tightened you should be able to push the rear down 5-6" easy without the shock or caltrac mounted. lube all bushings well and don't over tighten. know that there’s no binding, any adjustment later will work..



    3. i always start in the upper hole and preload of 1/16 gap. this will give you a lot of pressure over the rear tire. shock settings ON REAR, i always start at full tight on extension... know that the car is setup for a test pass have someone video it.. THE CAR WILL DO ONLY A few THINGS NOW.



    a. IT WILL HOOK AND PULL A HUGE WHEELIE

    - IF IT HOOKS AND PULLS A HUGE WHEELIE THEN TIGHTEN THE FRONT SHOCKS THIS SHOULD BE THE ONLY REASON TO TIGHTEN THE FRONT SHOCK

    b. IT WILL HOOK AND DO WHAT YOU NEED

    c. IT WILL HOOK AND pull left or right

    - IF IT HOOKS AND PULLS TO THE RIGHT OR LEFT THEN PUT A LITTLE PRELOAD ON THE SIDE IT PULLS TO.

    d. IT WILL HOOK AND SPIN 20FT OUT

    - IF IT HOOKS AND SPINS 20FT OUT START LOOSENING THE EXTENSION ON THE REAR SHOCKS 1-2 CLICKS AT A TIME TO IT HOOKS AND STAYS ON THE REAR TIRE.

    e. IT WILL KILL THE REAR TIRE BY HITTING IT WAY TO HARD

    - IF IT KILLS THE REAR TIRE YOU NEED TO PUT THE BARS IN THE LOWER HOLE AND ADJUST THE SAME AS YOU WOULD IN THE UPPER HOLE.
     
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