Traction control

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by 1320feet, Jan 31, 2021.

  1. 1320feet

    1320feet Veteran Member

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    Is anyone here using some kind of traction control for the street? I'm putting something together that will be in the 900 - 1000hp range.
     
  2. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    My first thought....Isn't time for a modern car? Are you looking for traction control or anti-lock brakes? The trick is "find a donor car with similar overall weight, front/rear weight distribution, center of gravity, roll rate, and wheelbase"

    If I could do it cheap....I would look into it again. I have wheel speed sensor capability with my DSE frame and C6 floater rearend

    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1108-abs-for-hot-rods/
     
  3. Fbird

    Fbird Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    yup....right foot! controls it every time

    anti-lock brakes = left foot
     
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  4. TTR230

    TTR230 Veteran Member

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    Pretty much this ^. Unless you are regularly driving in very slippery conditions and lack sensitivity in your right foot, this seems like a "because I can" project.i can't think of any stand alone traction control systems that are not hopelessly buried in another compete engine management system. Either way, I know where guys with brutal horsepower street cars, and they do fine on the street.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2021
  5. 1320feet

    1320feet Veteran Member

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    You guys go ahead and use your right foot, as that new car leaves you in the dust. I want to drive away from that ZL1 Camaro with my old rubber nose sleeper and not end up in the weeds trying.
     
  6. Fbird

    Fbird Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    sounds like you are mistaken TRACTION CONTROL for traction ability? if you do not have the ABILITY to put down 300 lb/ft of torque without spinning the tires due to poor suspension geometry ...it doesn't matter if you have 700 lb.ft of torque AND traction control....you are only going to accelerate per the sensitivity of the TRACTION CONTROL all the way up to 299 lb/ft of torque. It does NOT have any majic that let's you use all 700 lb.ft ....it simply REMOVES POWER to a level that the tire does not spin.

    short words: Traction CONTROL does NOT increase traction!...it only manages it. If you can't blip your throttle to control your rear wheels to go bark...bark...bark,,,(not spin....just ALMOST), YOU are your traction problem
     
  7. slamdik

    slamdik Member

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    What ECM are you running? If it's a Holley you can add a driveshaft and front wheel speed sensor. Pull timing or boost when the rear wheels spin faster than the front. It works pretty good for me. I'm 700ish whp. You will be able to boil the tires of at 50mph with 500whp.
     
  8. 1320feet

    1320feet Veteran Member

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    I'm not Mario Andretti, that's why I need help.
    I have not purchased the ecm yet. Still trying to decide between holly dominator or MS3. Leaning toward the dominator. I will use driveshaft and front wheel sensors. I'm thinking pulling timing will not be enough. Not sure how one can throttle the boost quickly. Thinking maybe fly by wire throttle body for quick response, but have not seen anyone using that method. Seen some using timing and rev limiter together. I'll be using boost from a belt driven turbo. I'd like to hear more about how to control the boost.
     
  9. 351maverick

    351maverick full time Ebay seller/hustler/car killer

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    get the rear suspension geometry correct & the car will hook

    trial & error

    there is no quick fix when it comes to traction
     
  10. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    Sounds like a cool project. I want to see how you do it. I’m watching
     

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