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Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by mwhizard, Mar 2, 2011.
This looks to be like it will be one hell of a ride when it's done.
I am in awe! Nice work. Admittedly I am not in the know regarding turbo's
I have a question though, how in the world does one ever get all of the complexities of the hot side plumbing down. Radius where to cut? Is there a modeling tool or do you just buy multipe bends and dive in? I need to wrap my head around that process.
Wow everytime I read this thread I'm more and more impressed. Amazing craftsmanship!
Awesome work. Loooove that hood clearance! Do you think one of the available carb intakes and a holley would clear? I don't do turbos, but a procharger might make its way in if I thought I could get away with fitting such a package under my stock hood.
Sheesh Mark, looks like you've got the field covered this year... archive spy shot turn two
I think you could make it work, there are some low profile carb enclosures that you can put boost through. If you have the time, means, and patience, you can build the brackets to put a procharger in.
The first thing you need to do is have an understanding of all the components of the system and where they need to be in relation to one another. Secondly, you need to try to imagine working on the car after all that plumbing is in, say to change spark plugs, oil, wheel alignment shims, whatever. Third, heat. Hot things away from paint, hoses, etc.
Once I figured that out I mounted my turbo's mid air on a temporary stand, then, while remembering all the previous rules, I connect the dots, so to speak. If you look at the pictures below you will see where the welds are. I start with 90degree mandrell elbows and if I need less than the 90degrees I take a slice off of one with a chop saw, trying to stay on the correct radius. Sometimes if it is very little I can use a belt sander, but thats a bit tricky to judge. Its the same with the downpipes although you can start with "U" bends or even the "U" bends with a 45degree end on them then cut to desired angles. I prefer the 90degree stuff as it has a nicer finish to it and is a little easier to work with just because there is less cutting.
So thats about it. No real tricks, just lots of patience, always a helping hand from a buddy,(holding pipe, marking, tacking) and to put it into perspective it takes about 4 hours to do 1 downpipe.
You can see some of the "cut" lines drawn on the radius on the pipe in this pic. Obviously didn't cut this one, but thats how you lay it out.
Here's the first bend, you can see how its basically a full 90degree bend. You just hold it in place with the second bend (this one maybe 35degrees) roughly eyed/held in place then tack at the top. You then move on to the 35degree piece, hold the piece you think will go under that in place then tack the 35 to the top 90. It's tricky to explain but you need to handle 2 pieces to attatch 1.
Hope that helps.
Maybe I was overthinking it but it is more likely that you are very talented AND humble. Thanks for explaining, I am still blown away and this will certainly be impressive when complete. A huge undertaking.
Wow very impressed beautiful fab work. Also hello from a Local One IUEC brother from New York !!