Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Original Drivetrain Topic' started by Allison Winn, May 2, 2021.
I glued mine on to the valve covers with upholstery glue. Never leaked.Lasted for years
Lol, yep, I say that’s a little too tacky.
Notice that you never see them full of an oily mess.
Felpro worked great for me as well. Just ensure they're fastened correctly. My restoration shop didn't tighten the valve covers enough and leaked until I wrenched on them a bit.
Truth is, the old OEM cast iron heads do not have a machined surface while aftermarket head do. What is often attributed to "my awesome gaskets of choice" (on aftermarket heads) is really just due to the machined surfaces on aftermarket heads vs the crappy old rounded mating surface on the OEM heads.
I always use and have the best luck with thick cork gaskets. 5/16” or 3/8” thick. Thin layer of snot on the valve cover side and dry on the head side. Not a fan of rubber or metal strapped ones. If you don’t have a heavy hand you don’t need that IMO.
Convert and install studs (use lock washers/nuts) spray cork gaskets with permatex and install using torque wrench. Recheck torque after about a week. This should eliminate leaks in that area.
This is the recipe I use, never had a leak.
I have very old, as in original, M/Ts and using the blue FPs without issue and without sealants on stock heads.
Can't even fathom on how folks using rubber gaskets don't pick up on leaks. It's ok, i run the same crap heads that the rest of world does but the fiber gaskets are far more better than rubber.