Valve cover mod

[BK3]

Thanks for the reply’s everyone, cutting the Bosses “thanks Tom3” off will be the way I go, not only do I get to buy another tool (yes honey I need this tool to get the job done), but also because the color of the valve cover is a perfect match to the engine block and a good match to the car body.
Thanks again.
Jim.

 

[sandlapper]

Didn't realize we had to defend our decisions. Should he write a dissertation for you?

Jeez, answer his question or.............

Maybe his doesn't actually need a stud girdle. If so, his wouldn't be the first I've seen that had a stud girdle but didn't need one ...jeez! burr under saddle ?

If his needs one, others have mentioned several clearance options. Include taller VCs as well. Baffles help keep oil in motor.

 

[tom3]

Really a good looking machine there too!

 

[Mitch_Z]

Maybe it does not apply to this build but it is my understanding the baffle is require to prevent the PCV value from sucking oil and fouling out the plugs.

 

[BK3]

Maybe it does not apply to this build but it is my understanding the baffle is require to prevent the PCV value from sucking oil and fouling out the plugs.

I thought and assumed the same. However my original valve cover did not have any baffles and none of my plugs have been fouled.

 

[G72Zed]

To the OP, I’ve done this exact mod on many tall valve covers due to using a stud girdle.

But, for clarity, I have also built small low profile box baffles as the oil was migrating and overtaxing the PCV and showing intake track and combustion chamber contamination. Use a small 3/8 clear plastic fuel filter with paper element on the PCV line going to the carb to see if you need to make some low profile boxes.

The term “Mild cam and 11:1 comp ratio” is a statement that may indicated the engines octane sensitivity, and excessive oil migration in the chambers is a big negative, and if iron heads, even more-so.

If your iron head, and a good quality heavy casting -

EDIT: like a DART as an example, with quality 7/16th studs, you could perhaps forgo the girdle. It depends somewhat on the spring pressures, rocker ratio,and weight and rpm. I have seen girdles used with cheap a$$ pushrods that did not do a thing other then lighten the wallet. I think you can have best of both worlds....

I pressed send before I could finish the post.

 

[BK3]

To the OP, I’ve done this exact mod on many tall valve covers due to using a stud girdle.

But, for clarity, I have also built small low profile box baffles as the oil was migrating and overtaxing the PCV and showing intake track and combustion chamber contamination. Use a small 3/8 clear plastic fuel filter with paper element on the PCV line going to the carb to see if you need to make some low profile boxes.

The term “Mild cam and 11:1 comp ratio” is a statement that may indicated the engines octane sensitivity, and excessive oil migration in the chambers is a big negative, and if iron heads, even more-so.

If your iron head, and a good quality casting

Thank you for that suggestion, I am definitely going to do this. My spark plugs show no indication of fouling, I’ve been told that was also a good sign as well.
For anyone that cares, here is what the new valve covers installed look like. The Mod was a success, and I scored a new tool in the process. They are a great match to the block and really good to the body paint.
Cheers, and thanks everyone for your suggestions….

 

[1980RS]

If you are not racing your car and spinning the engine to 7K all the time, there is no need for a stud girdle on the street. Lose them and enjoy the covers.

 

[sandlapper]

Nice looking car & engine bay

 

[need-for-speed]

Great looking engine bay!

To all- I see the vac advance canister is capped off. Would he be better off with it connected?