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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by 70SSRS350, Jul 8, 2021.
I ended buying the very same (just in red color), but there is still somethibg wrong...
It seems that you've eliminated the ignition system. Are you sure the wires are in their correct firing order?
If that's OK, then have you run a compression check to see if it's a mechanical issue?
You didn't mention whether or not is was better/worse cold or hot?
Wires are in correct position, double checked.
Compression check done and it seems fine..
Cold or warm seems to not affect.
Your firing voltages look OK. No burn time info though. That being said, what makes you think it's ignition?
^^^^^^ Time to check fuel……looks like you have spark….
At first I tought the problem was ignition, I found very odd ohm resistance values on my plug wires, so I focused on ignition... at this point I think it's something else...
This evening (in Italy) I did another test:
With engine idling (bad as usual) I disconnected one wire at time on distributor (there was spark on distributor/wire when I disconnect).
If I disconnected cylinder #2 or #3 or #5 or #8, it makes big difference on engine work.
if I disconnected cylinder #1 or #7 or #4 or #6, it makes very small or NO difference.
Is not possible that (with new parts) 4 cilinders do not spark at all!
My intake is an Edelbrock Performer (dual plane) and these cylinders are on the same plenum!
This make me think about the carb!
How do the plugs look compared to the others? It might be an intake air leak. The cylinders that did not make much difference would be a lot lighter than the other 4.
If you got a timing light, hook it to each plug wire as close to the plug as you can and observe the spark. I'm thinking either the petronix, rotor, or cap is bad..
His firing voltage is 8-12 kv for every cylinder. Based on that, how can his primary circuit be bad?