Vortec Build

[JeremyM]

Everything is disassembled and at the machine shop for inspection and repair. It is a 2 bolt main block. Machine shop suggested getting a crank kit as it would be cheaper than cleaning up the factory crank.

Hope to have everything back in a couple of weeks.

 

[tom3]

Just my opinion, but I'd rather go with the tried and true original crank with good machine work that an unknown reworked core. Unless the kit would be an upgraded performance setup of some sort.

 

[Chevyforever]

I too prefer retaining the original crank especially if not balancing the reciprocating assy.

 

[sandlapper]

OP JeremyM

x3 on OE crank... if doable.

?????? Can the shop complete the the fuel pump mount ???? Let's see a pic ???
Shop says buy a crank kit????? Based On What measurements ??? Pics of any crank damage ???
Usually, a later crank that has Not been starved can be professionally Polished and fitted w/ a combo of stds/ones/twos inserts.

??? Did anyone (who's qualified to do so) "read" the bearings and crank when all inserts were in OE position; unusual wear (that's unusual) which may or may not demonstrate a pattern indicative of warped block/bent crank ??????

What does the shop say about bores/boring/measurements????

Are you asking all the right questions & Are ya sure that shop's The one???

For what it seems you expect from this block; makes No difference if mains are 2 bolt or 4 bolt.

 

[scrap--metal]

Three years ago I paid $150 to have a crank turned down 0.010" on the rods and mains. It came with bearings too.

It's been working good since, and I'm glad I had it done instead of replacing it.

 

[JeremyM]

The shop is a good reputable shop and did a great job on my Pontiac 455. I could see the scoring in the main bearings when we disassembled it and they were deep enough to catch a finger nail. I thought it could have been saved but the shop said it would have cost more than a kit. Based on the price of bearings not bought in a kit, I'm sure they were right on cost.

I spoke to the crank rebuilding service that did the crank in the kit and talked to them about my projected build specs. They said the crank is an original GM that they reconditioned. It is balanced to factory specs but they said if we change pistons or rods to have everything balanced. I was very impressed with the crank rebuilder as I did not think I would get a person to talk with, especially one that would take the time to discuss my build.

Factory lifters seem to all be collapsed. I have a set of new sealed power 2148 lifters ready to go in as they did not work in my 455 as I had hoped.

Talked to the shop about drilling for the fuel pump rod but they did not have the jigs necessary to do it. Since we are going FI, we went with a Tanks Inc/FITECH tank setup. FITECH unit has been ordered as well.

My son settled on the summit 8800 cam.

 

[sandlapper]

8800 rather tame/lame ... for my use/recommendation, 8801 or 8802 look better.

regardless if he's jlord hisself ... don't put it together without the proper bleeder holes in gallery plugs/cups ... told ya x2.

 

[Mike Sinkoski]

I’m running L-31 of sorts, I’m using LT1 pistons and rods(flat tops) and fel pro 1094 gaskets that yielded a perfect quench of .040 and I have it at 10.14:1 static. LT4 hot cam with 1.6 roller rockers, ls3 springs, EFI with Holley sniper….it’s pretty beastly and 17mpg in a 4k lb truck. I used a old school timing cover and ground the crank reluctor to fit, and a $40 Chinese HEI that I locked out the mech and vac advance and letting the ECU control timing(awesome btw!) The block does not use the internal coolant bypass if you didn’t already know so keep that in mind when selecting a pump and drive system. The oe accessory drive would be awesome on a 79 as the alt is on the right side and p/s pump just needs the control valve pulled out and your original pressure valve screwed in. I don’t know if the AC compressor would fit under hood if he is planning on ac. If I was swapping cranks, now is the time to just do the 383. It’s the only thing I wished I did differently

 

[sandlapper]

now there's a clever DIYer at work ... ergo ground the crank reluctor to fit (4 segment?) ... now serving only as proper spacer between crank gear & damper ... seems like a sweet motor!