hubedobeedo
3rd times a charm
i would rework the newer one for sure.
Welding Sheet Metal Help
- Thread starter badazz81z28
- Start date
badazz81z28
Veteran Member
trial fit?
hubedobeedo
3rd times a charm
did you try fitting the nicer one on car to see how it fits? i know its missing part of it, but you could a least mock it up .
The way I would approach it is to measure the current cutout on the original fender and add about a half inch to each edge. An easy way to do this is to take a piece of cardboard, hold it under the opening and trace it. Then, measure about a half inch beyond these edges and add some lines. Then lay this pattern in as close to the same position as possible cut this out of the donor fender. Now you have a part that has the same curves and bends as the original, but just a bit bigger. Now you can hold this up under the original fender cutout and move it around until it is in the exact correct position. Once there, you can with a metal scriber trace the opening exactly. Carefully trim this to size and it should be ready to tack weld into position for a trial. If good, then finish the weld by hitting a spot randomly to keep it cool until it is fully welded.
This process should work unless the cutout opening is really bent out of its original shape, which is possible if whoever cut it didn't care.
As far as using the rusted fender, I've seen worse used. I would blast it clean (be gentle but get all the rust off). Then if it only has random small holes you may be better off fixing it by filling the holes and epoxy priming. then move to a high build primer and block it smooth. It's a tough call for sure. If your original is really good other than the cutout, you are probably correct to try and fix it.
This process should work unless the cutout opening is really bent out of its original shape, which is possible if whoever cut it didn't care.
As far as using the rusted fender, I've seen worse used. I would blast it clean (be gentle but get all the rust off). Then if it only has random small holes you may be better off fixing it by filling the holes and epoxy priming. then move to a high build primer and block it smooth. It's a tough call for sure. If your original is really good other than the cutout, you are probably correct to try and fix it.
hubedobeedo
3rd times a charm
i reworked mine ,i actually did not want the front area were battery, and charcoal canister went .i straightened and welded holes i did not want , sand blasted epoxied and used a fill primer blocked and reprimed and prep and refinished . the tire side i used a urethane stone guard before paint.
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badazz81z28
Veteran Member
I’ll post more pics for fun. It’s really hard to get a true assessment of the donor fender. It would need it’s fair share of work too and it would be much better uglier.
badazz81z28
Veteran Member
Why would you fix either of them when you could just buy another from classic industries. Maybe i don’t understand… you would have a good amount of money in the non rusty one after all is said and done to make it look like its never been patched.
firefighter_11
Veteran Member
What boat did i miss and where did you say anything about repo fitting like crap?
You certainly come off like a jerk..
All aftermarket metal panels both inner and outer fit like crap including upper and lower dashes and end air vent pieces.
I would fix the originals any day before buying sh!t.
I was lucky when my car was done in 1985. All panels were still available at your local Chevy Parts Dept. Whoever thinks aftermarket is great, just has no clue.
I would fix the originals any day before buying sh!t.
I was lucky when my car was done in 1985. All panels were still available at your local Chevy Parts Dept. Whoever thinks aftermarket is great, just has no clue.
badazz81z28
Veteran Member
Because instead of adding value to the post, you decided to criticize why someone wouldn’t just buy a repop. If I wanted a repop, I would have done that. Years of experience and research drove me to want to fix this 70 only inner fender.
