When do you consider an engine 'warmed up'?

[G72Zed]

Don't some drag racers make runs on a cold engine? I could have sworn I have heard of that theory somewhere in my past. Since you are a dyno guy, can a cold engine make more power? even with thin 0w-30 oil?

If the "cold" is in reference to water temps, yes, back in the day when at the drags many of the quicker cars would hose down the rad, keep the electric fan going getting that water temp down, oil, not so much. I used ice in the cool can, and would ice down the intake and push it to the line, got my best ET's that way (11.1). Also graded down and pulled a few quarts as well.

Some engines make more power with cooler water temps, some loose power, depends.

Im not a scientist,but I watch that enginemasters show with brule.
He operates the dyno all day long and I think I caught him say he waits until its 130*.
Dont know if that was water or oil temp,he didnt specify.

We usually get the oil temps to 170-180* and then give it a "drink" to get the water at 145/60 ish and full pull once stabilized. I bet it was the water temps he was referring.

One thing is for sure, never saw more hp or tq from oil that was not up to temp, but saw losses in the double digits, most times a "backup" pull gives better numbers, even though the temps on both are up.

 

[G72Zed]

It seems people who are sympathetic of the rotating assembly of their engine, tend to have the most break downs and repairs. The guys who don't give a crap, seem to do better and spend less on repairs.

Yes, it does make you wonder sometimes how it goes, but I see just the opposite, in the "racing" world, people who are "sympathetic" or educated is because they spent a chyt load of $$$ on their racing engine program, and understand the need to take care of their equipment.

The guy's that "who don't give a crap" tend to be "the rich guys", and they are great for business LOL.

 

[Rustbucket350]

It seems people who are sympathetic of the rotating assembly of their engine, tend to have the most break downs and repairs. The guys who don't give a crap, seem to do better and spend less on repairs.

I think its warmed up enough when it starts. Of course, with my builds I'm lucky if they do that! If it has oil in it, she's ready.

 

[Rustbucket350]

Yes, it does make you wonder sometimes how it goes, but I see just the opposite, in the "racing" world, people who are "sympathetic" or educated is because they spent a chyt load of $$$ on their racing engine program, and understand the need to take care of their equipment.

The guy's that "who don't give a crap" tend to be "the rich guys", and they are great for business LOL.

Hey I'm one of those "who don't give a crap" guys! Definitely not rich. I'd say I'm good at collecting parts and making some stuff do a thing. I can blow up a 10 grand motor just as easy as a 10 dollar motor. However, I do appreciate the "rich" compliment!

Edit to say out of probably 10 motors I've thrown together I have yet to see one explode. Might be my time with this dump truck twin turbo deal. Looking forward to some fireworks and the excuse to build a bigger engine with bigger turbos.

I swear the one 350 I put together should not have ran at all. Free dished pistons and rods. Free crank (pitted). Cylinder walls full of rust and pits since it sat outside open for who knows how long. Well, I honed it, left the pits, shoelace polished the crank with 1000 grit, left those pits too, polished the OIL PUMP GEARS with 1000 grit since they looked chewed on (I am well aware of the low price of oil pumps but if its good, why junk it?), did not even look at cam bearings (I have the tool and I did make sure they were at least there) shoved in a summit cam, 305 heads I had (no I did not lap the valves when I put them in) with factory springs. Rebuilt the 650 Holley that came with the block, hell I even polished the little round doodads (the term escapes me right now) that sit on top of the rocker arms under the nuts and used leftover pushrods I already had. Filled it with 10W40 due to the loose tolerances and when I saw 70 psi at idle cold I just let it eat at 7500 rpms and blasting flames out of the headers. 50 psi idle oil pressure at 190 degrees. That motor got sold to a daily driver to someone who needed it. I had $900 in it total with the single plane intake, cam, and carb. I checked one cylinder for skirt to wall clearance on assembly, did not like the result, and proceeded. No joke or exaggeration, 7500 rpms repeatedly. I also used Walmart oil and I believe a bottle of the comp cams break in stuff.

Now that all probably sounds dumb. Why would anyone do that? Well I wanted to see for myself if it was possible and just how much you do have to care. Turns out the right amount of caring is "some". I did build it for myself, not for sale. Truck that motor went in ended up getting sold for like 15 grand with a paint job. Never heard any complaints. Personally, I have no doubt it's "safe" redline would be 7 grand with a max of 8. I wasn't willing to stand next to it at 8 grand. 7500. Sure.

 

[Rustbucket350]

Sorry if that wasn't relevant to the topic but I kinda think it is.

 

[bazookatooths]

180* oil/coolant for hard acceleration and towing.

 

[bkmont]

Based on my car's cold start tendency - I don't put it into gear until my ears hear the correct idle note coming out of the tail pipes. RPM is around 750 with a low rump-rump flowing out of the tail pipes. 5-10 minutes depending upon how long it has been sitting.

 

[Rustbucket350]

Uhh. Guess how I put this in gear.