Who makes decent rattle can paint nowadays???

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by 72'z'steve, Mar 20, 2021.

  1. 72'z'steve

    72'z'steve Veteran Member

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    ^^^^ Thanks for the tip on the quick silver stuff. It appears Rustolem has the "professional" line of paint now which is fast dry,and the old take forever to dry stuff in the classic white can plus enough different types to make your head spin.Spent some time at menards-JEEEZ the options!! Bought the professional gloss black,did dry quick,recoated fine with out lifting I also bought a can of VHT sp 650 at o'reillys I had 2 panels did 1 with each can,VHT seemed to lay better,but I had a Box Elder bug land on it and "walk around " on it :eek:.I will be seeing how it wet sands and recoats.At least each seemed to cover grey primer well with no runs and was not watery or no solids like the krylon.I'll see if I can post up some pics this weekend after some elbow grease.-Kinda foolish for a couple tractor tins but don't we seem to get carried away on our projects no matter how trivial!!:D Later Steve!!
     
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  2. bullheimer

    bullheimer Veteran Member

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    i'm with rustoleum too. painted my motorcycle with their yellow. came out incredible with sanding down to like 1000 or 1500 with NO clear coat. but if it was black, i would still use SEM frame paint
     
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  3. Craig Long

    Craig Long New Member

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    John Deere makes black rattle cans in Glossy, semi and semi flat. They make it in quarts too. It reminds me of old school Rustoleum. It takes a day or two to dry to touch but flows out real nice. Just an option. The semi looks nice on core supports and inner fenders. I’m sure the have Deere Dealers up there in WI
    Craig
     
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  4. Rosster

    Rosster Veteran Member Gold Member

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    The problem with many enamels is they are so soft that they dull quickly and can’t be polished back to a full shine.
     
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  5. PbFlinger

    PbFlinger New Member

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    What a pain this is. I haven’t found any modern hardware/flap store paint that is anything like it was 20 years ago. Primarily it just doesn’t want to dry, doesn’t adhere well & chips easily when it finally does. I have recently used some Duplicolor engine enamel spray bombs that were pretty good. With any of the modern junk I can’t get it to stick to their primer very well no matter how I prep it. For me any of it seems to stick best to bare blasted metal, washed with a little dish soap & water, and dried with a heat gun. BIG TIP- I bought a countertop convection oven for my garage. Any small parts that will fit in it get baked for an hour or two @ 200* or so, after air drying for 30 min or so. Seems to VASTLY Improve hardness, and I can install them without waiting a week.
     
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  6. 80sz

    80sz Veteran Member

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    I did the same thing, put my air induction flapper in oven at 200 for few hours and made a big difference. Flattened out also
     
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  7. PbFlinger

    PbFlinger New Member

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    Slightly off-topic, but perhaps relevant and may save somebody some trouble. A few years ago, I got a new set of tires for my step van. The wheels were getting fairly rusty, so I took them to a commercial sandblaster and had them blasted. I have used regular old Rustoleum for a long time, and it used to be pretty good paint. I have stuff that I painted more than 30 years ago with it, and it still looks great. It always took a long time to dry, but used to be hard as nails when it finally did- but this stuff was ridiculous. I painted all six wheels white with brush on Rustoleum. I hung them from a big swingset in my backyard. After TWO WEEKS of hanging in the sun, I could still dent the paint with my fingernail. No way I could mount tires on them like that. I wound up rigging up a couple of heat lamps in the garage, and baking one wheel at a time overnight as hot as I could get them. It took a week. Never again, for any jobs that size in the future I’ll just use regular automotive paint. I don’t think it’s the same paint that it used to be.
     
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  8. Ruthead

    Ruthead Member

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    as good as any out there is sold by Kimball Midwest High Solids paint . Pair it with their self etching primer and you got a combo that's top quality.
     
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  9. 72'z'steve

    72'z'steve Veteran Member

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    Heat has always been the spray bombs friend :D,I have an OLD toaster oven probably 40 years old big enough to put a turkey in and about 250-300 it really used to make enamel paint nice smooth and polishable.I used to restore old Tonka trucks from the 50's and 60's and that was always the ticket,haven't had the time for a few years so I'm curious how the new stuff works.My current sidetrack I was able to sand out the "bug tracked area" on the VHT painted panel and smooth and re coat the panel with out it lifting or acting up so I'll let it cure on its own a couple days and polish both out.Attached is a couple pics of some old tonkas I customized/dipped restored a few years ago for kicks. Later Steve
     

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  10. Mr Sunshine

    Mr Sunshine Veteran Member

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    I've been using Eastwood paints and all seem to be very good. Really like the rust encapsolator paint. It's not cheap so be prepared to pay $22 per can. It is the larger can though.
     
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