Wilwood 12" Dynalite vs c5 13"?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by CowsGoMoooooooo, Sep 18, 2016.

  1. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    It's not just about stopping the car. Brake rotor size, pad material, caliper design play more of a role of not only stopping, but repeated stopping, reducing brake fade with high temps, warping rotors etc. Heck a lot of home built drag cars stop with stock 11" single piston calipers.

    Unless you go with the CPP C5 spindle or ATS, you need to cut for Wilwood, C5, or Baer
     
  2. landpilot

    landpilot Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I agree, that's why I have a few thousand in the brakes on my car... but the OP said he didn't want to spend a lot and didn't want to fab anything because the car would be a daily driver and not a track car. Everything but the Wilwood D52 calipers require fab and will push his cost closer to a grand or more (except the CPP C5 chinese kit). If he gets too far from stock he's going to need a new MC as well because the volume is going to be all off and the car won't stop they way it should without a change in piston size.
     
  3. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    My advice would be to use the stock brakes with quality pads and rotors. That's the recipe for low cost and no fab daily driver camaro
     
  4. CowsGoMoooooooo

    CowsGoMoooooooo New Member

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    http://www.customworksperformance.net/brakes.html

    So people think those brakes listed at the top there will be plenty enough for daily duties and not worrying ab out dying if someone pulls out in front and I don't have enough braking force?

    I don't care for 'repeated' braking as long as it's good enough for the road and can stop fine with manual brakes. I might wait til later to get real good brakes but I just want someone that's fine. The way it sits I'd never trust the car on the highway.

    So.. Those two 'direct fit' calipers plus pads and rotors it should be plenty? Even those it'll probably end up being around $600 said and done. I want to do that but that'll still be around the same price as the classic performance c5 kit. As cheap as it is it might even be worth to try still and maybe get upgraded parts for it..
     
  5. 71RS/SS396

    71RS/SS396 Veteran Member

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    You said the power brakes were removed and changed over to manual. Is the pedal ratio correct? Do you have the correct bore master cylinder (1" bore)?
    There's no reason why the stock brakes with the correct components in good working order, the correct pedal ratio, and good pads shouldn't work fine for daily driver use.
    I would check all of that before I threw money at it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2016
  6. russelljones48

    russelljones48 Member

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    I just completed a brake upgrade on my '70. I had a rebuilt stock booster and MC so (at this point) all I needed to do was upgrade the brakes. If price/performance is an object IMHO you should consider Keith's approach. He's the owner of Custom Works Products and is a vendor/supporter of this site. I used 13.5" Corvette rotors and 2002 Camaro calipers along with his modified spindles. You can buy all of the parts (except the spindles) from RockAuto (as well as replacement parts later) for very reasonable prices. Be aware that there is very little difference in stopping power between a multiple piston set up and a single piston set up - you need to look at the total size of the pistons and swept area. I am using 18x8's on the front and have good clearance. I can't find my estimating sheet but I think I have less that $600 in the front brakes. My car now stops VERY well - I measured the stopping distance as well as I could and it improved by about 10+ feet from 60mph. There is also a budget upgrade for the rears which I'm planning and have acquired the parts. Google "GenII budget rear brake upgrade" ( I think Car Craft did the article) and you should find it. Turns out that the Gen III 11.5" Camaro rear disk set up bolts right up the any 10" or 12" rear axle. I found a junk yard donor for the brackets, calipers etc. and then bought new rotors and rebuilt calipers (use the old calipers from the junker as cores). The junk yard parts were paid for by the core charges. I have not yet completed this conversion because it requires changes to the stock e-brake and a proportioning valve change but will make the change this winter so I can't yet tell you how this improves braking. At this point I think I have less than $400 in the rear brakes. BTW - make sure you upgrade to SS flex lines - Keith has those too. I would rate this conversion as easy to moderately difficult. Good luck!
     
  7. CowsGoMoooooooo

    CowsGoMoooooooo New Member

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    They stop just okay enough. But they're still old brakes man, if I'm going 55 and someone pulls out in front I wouldn't be able to stop quick enough.
     
  8. z28cp

    z28cp Veteran Member

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    Another good budget setup is the 1LE rotor/B-body spindle conversion. All bolt-on and inexpensive.
     

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