Window Alignment Guide


Veteran Member
Jul 15, 2004
Luton, England
When I recently changed my windows from manual to electric, I needed to adjust the windows. A search of this site came up with a few bits of information, but no real detailed information on what to do. Hopefully this post will help others doing a search in the future.

In the attached picture, I have highlight all of the available adjustment points, labelled in the general order in which they should be used and I'll go through what each of them do below. For best results, I recommend that all moving parts are cleaned and re-greased, and all fuzzies are replaced. Note that the fuzzies should not be used to adjust the window.

The first step is to get the tilt of the window correct. Because the upper stops can have the effect of moving the tilt when the window is fully raised, you need to lower the window 1/2 inch from closed and then check the vertical gap to the A-pillar and roof frame. There should be an even gap all the way around. If there isn't, you may need to tip the window forwards or backwards to correct it. Loosen the two bolts marked 1, and then move the front bolt up or down - Moving up tilts the glass forward, down tilts it backward. Re-tigten both bolts when done. Note, although the rear of the two bolts shouldn't be adjustable, I found mine could move a bit in it's hole. Make sure that it stays in the same place when you re-tighten.

With the glass square, now check the front/rear gaps. to the A-Pillar and B-Pillar. If it needs to move one way or another, loosen the two bolts marked 2 and slide the rear channel forwards or backwards as required, then re-tighten.

Next step is the Upper stops, marked 3 & 4. These control the point at which the windows stops rising. These brackets are located in the window channels. Loosen the bolt, slide the stop up or down as required and re-tighten. Care should be taken to ensure that you haven't made the stop too high. After you have adjusted the stop, wind the window up so that it connects with them, then SLOWLY close the door making sure it doesn't catch the car body.

Next is the in-out adustment - moving the glass towards or away from the outer weather strip. These are controlled front and rear separately, with the bolts marked as 5 & 6. Loosen each pair of bolts and move the glass channel inwards or outwards as required. This also controls the in/out of the top of the window, but in reverse, i.e. if you move the adjustment outward, the window tips further in. Ideally the glass needs to have light pressure against the rubber sweep, but not to be too far out that it doesn't make proper contact with the body weather strip when closed. Try to keep the pair of bolts even in the slots. If they are un-even, the window channel may be twisted and add resistance.

The final glass adustment is on the lower stop, and this controls how far down the window can travel. Loosen the bolt to move the bracket, with the aim to keep the top of the window level with the outer weather strip when fully lowered. Re-tighten when done.

With the glass now aligned, you can set the inner fuzzies, marked 8 & 9 to lightly touch the glass. There should be little resistance between the two, with the fuzzies acting as anti-rattle features rather than guides. Note the location marked with a blue X. This should not have a fuzzy, but a bare bracket. Mine is missing, but all it does it provide support for the inner door card.

Hopefully this will be of some help. There will obviously be some trial and error involved, but at least you have some information to start with.


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Mar 29, 2006
Olympia, Wa
I am working this on my car currently and thank you both for the post and link, very helpful.

I am a little concerned with my outer window felt as it does not travel the length of the door. Is that normal?


Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Dec 5, 2007
NorthCentral PA
barno68 said:
I am working this on my car currently and thank you both for the post and link, very helpful.

I am a little concerned with my outer window felt as it does not travel the length of the door. Is that normal?

There are two types of window felt: One with the chrome bead without the exterior moulding, and another with no chrome bead that requires the addition of the full door chrome moulding.

My outer felt has the chrome bead, not sure about yours. On mine, the rubber/felt part covers the entire length of the window and the chrome bead goes beyond that. However, the chrome part does not go all the way across the top of the door to where it meets the fender. It stops just below the roof pillar. Is that what you are referring to? If so, yes that is normal.

If you have the one without the chrome bead, you can get the moulding that covers the entire top of the door all the way to the intersection of the hood and fender.

Hope this is what you were looking for...


Veteran Member
Dec 3, 2003
Beavercreek, OH USA
Great article Jamie. This is one of those areas that plague many second gen owners. I myself spent days adjusting the damn windows. Your information will keep others from the same hell.
Hats off!

John Wright

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Aug 9, 2002
Rustburg, Va
Thanks for the pic and the info concerning each of the adjustments. My driver's window will roll up too high and will catch the top of the car if I am not careful....and sometimes it will lean in too much and miss the weather stripping at the top...I'll use your guide and see how it all turns out.


Veteran Member
Jul 17, 2008
andalusia al
gap at top of window.

the post by Jamieg285 helped out a lot but the problem is that I have a gap at the roof of about 1 inch. I cant icrease the tilt of the window to touch the weather stripping alont the roof. Am I missing an adjustment? I need to get the glass to touch the waether stripping before I can make the other adjustments.