Yet Another No Start Thread....Newbie Needs Help!

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Willie Bifulco, May 26, 2020.

  1. Willie Bifulco

    Willie Bifulco Member

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    Original 1970 307 Camaro. Car was returned to me on a flatbed after body restoration (although a new fuel & water pump plus a timing chain and cam was replaced by the shop). The shop had the car running previously and it started and ran when I rec'd to get it into my garage. It also started a couple days later - afterwards no start. The coil's primary/secondary #s are good, getting fuel to the carb, and since the car was sitting for 20 years, I changed plugs, wires, points, condensor, distr. cap & wires thinking this was needed anyway. The engine turns and rotor spins but I have no spark at the plugs. I know very little about the mechanical side and have exhausted my skills at this point. Anyone have a recommendation on what I should do next? Thanks! Willie
     

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  2. Michaels

    Michaels Member

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    new dizzy coil I guess ??
     
  3. 71flh

    71flh Veteran Member

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    Make sure you have voltage to the coil and the points are opening as well as closing. Plugs fire when the points open due to the collapsing magnetic field in the coil. I seem to recall reading that condensers (capacitors) are often found to be bad when new these days. If you haven't try pulling a plug and testing for spark with the plug end laying on the header or manifold.
     
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  4. 73 Z

    73 Z Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Replace with an HEI dist. and put the original on the shelf. you'll be miles ahead.
     
  5. Vettenick

    Vettenick Vettenick

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    Not to be tedious, but how did you measure dwell? How did you measure coil primary and secondary resistance, and what were they?
     
  6. cadillac_al

    cadillac_al Veteran Member

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    Are the spark plugs sparking? It could very well be the coil. It's not hard to burn one out if you forget the key on
     
  7. Willie Bifulco

    Willie Bifulco Member

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    I wanted to get back and thank everyone and to also mention I was able to get the car running yesterday. Seems like the original points/condenser when the car last started were @ end of life. As I mentioned in my earlier email, I replaced the 2 parts with a new combined points/condenser part that resulted in a no-start. After troubleshooting further with the advice from this site and others, I still had no luck until I decided to replace the new points/condenser part with another new 2-part configuration. Set the gap @ .019 and the car started right up. I think it might have been a fail on the first new part(s).

    So now on to the next issue before I tune the car....I have a significant squeal from the engine bay when the car runs. It seems to be more than bad belts and possibly a pulley or two. I have 3 belts as it's an A/C car w/ power steering. I'm going to replace the belts as they could be as old as 20+ years while the car was stored. Assuming it's not the belts, any advice on how best to locate the source of the squeal?

    Thanks again, Willie
     
  8. Willie Bifulco

    Willie Bifulco Member

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    Seems like a lot of folks have gone this route w/o complaint. I'm going to keep it old school for as long as I can....The car ran great with original set up for 97K miles, so I'm OK w/ contributing a couple of bruised knuckles to the effort for a while longer. Thanks.
     
  9. Bills69

    Bills69 Veteran Member

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    you might want to look into a pertronix ignition it will keep the original look with a modern touch
     
  10. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    There are two usual belts that will squeal , the one for the alt, and the one on the PS, you can use a belt dressing to try and see which one, however, just caanging the belts out will be the best course of action, and if the squeal continues then the alt, or PS pump might be going out , take off one belt and see if it goes away
     

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