Cooling fan relay circuit blowing signal fuse

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Icepick23

Veteran Member
Nov 17, 2021
176
Detroit
A lot of variables here. It could be anything such as shorts in wires. Who knows.
However, you have two fans hooked onto a single relay. You said you've done this before, but I think your eBay fans are giving you the problem here. As both fans turn on, the DRAW of power is a lot. The fans might be requiring more power than what you are used to. As the draw of power remains constant, the copper wires heat up. The resistance of copper increases as its temperature increases requiring more power to operate your fans. Then add in the fact of probably having small gauged wires and you have the perfect recipe for your wiring to heat up and fuses to blow.
Those eBay Fan motors probably ain't doing you a favor here.

For relay wire Ref check this out": DIN 72552 Relay Info

Heavy gauge wiring is something I have always done in this area.

If it where a short somewhere in the system I would think you would blow a fuse pretty fast. You said it take a couple of days. So this is why I said what I said about heat and resistance. You need so see why your trigger wire is drawing so much power. The draw of power might be heating up your relay to the point your trigger wire is now effected. I been using 70 amp fan relays to guard against this. See if this helps or not. good luck.
 
Last edited:

highper

New Member
Mar 24, 2011
12
Clinton, IA
In this illustration the “low amperage” control circuit, and the “consumer” circuit are sharing a fuse. The control circuit should have its own dedicated, fused power supply with like a 3-5 amp fuse. 25 amps on the control circuit is a lot as the relay coil itself should consume less than one amp once it’s latched. Your symptom suggests a short to ground. You can open the relay up by carefully popping the cover off of it and inspect it to see if the relay coil is shorting out and if you are blowing a 25 amp fuse you may be able to see evidence of arching.
Crap that is not how it's wired below is how it's wired 🤦‍♂️. I haven't had time to mess with it yet. I'll do an amp draw test on the both the fan side and the control circuit and replace the relay as soon as I have a chance to pick one up and get back in the garage. It's just weird to me that the trigger fuse is what's blowing and not the fan fuse. I do remember now that when we first got the car running the relay quit on us. I was a used one i had laying around so I didn't think much of it. Now I am realy leaning toward the fans shorting out and somehow taking out the control side fuse. Can't wait to cut open the current relay and see what's going on inside.
 

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Twisted_Metal

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 26, 2004
35,788
Bloomington, MN
Are those two fans wired in series?

I don’t see a switch or temp sensor(s) to trigger the relay.

Are they always “On” whenever the key is in the run position?
 
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highper

New Member
Mar 24, 2011
12
Clinton, IA
A lot of variables here. It could be anything such as shorts in wires. Who knows.
However, you have two fans hooked onto a single relay. You said you've done this before, but I think your eBay fans are giving you the problem here. As both fans turn on, the DRAW of power is a lot. The fans might be requiring more power than what you are used to. As the draw of power remains constant, the copper wires heat up. The resistance of copper increases as its temperature increases requiring more power to operate your fans. Then add in the fact of probably having small gauged wires and you have the perfect recipe for your wiring to heat up and fuses to blow.
Those eBay Fan motors probably ain't doing you a favor here.

For relay wire Ref check this out": DIN 72552 Relay Info

Heavy gauge wiring is something I have always done in this area.

If it where a short somewhere in the system I would think you would blow a fuse pretty fast. You said it take a couple of days. So this is why I said what I said about heat and resistance. You need so see why your trigger wire is drawing so much power. The draw of power might be heating up your relay to the point your trigger wire is now effected. I been using 70 amp fan relays to guard against this. See if this helps or not. good luck.
I never know how to reply to on these threads. Does everyone whos commented get a notification when I reply or only the individual I replied to? Anyway, I used heavy gauge wire on everything I did such as the ground, fan power going into the relay (position 30). BUT the pig tails on the ebay fans and the control wire coming from the harness are on the small side. And this is the first time I've wired up dual fans. I'll probably add another relay at some point in hopes of a failsafe. Any recommendations on a good value set of fans? I already have the shroud and they are currently 12in. I'm getting mixed messages but it seems like I should shoot for around 3000 cfm total? I'm running a .040 over 350, 8.5:1 compression, Factory iron heads, forged pistons, with an old school 327/350hp L79 cam. Guessing around 350ish hp.
 

highper

New Member
Mar 24, 2011
12
Clinton, IA
Are those two fans wired in series?

I don’t see a switch or temp sensor(s) to trigger the relay.

Are they always “On” whenever the key is in the run position?
They are wired parallel I just didn't draw that part out very well. No temp sensor, the fans come on when key is in the on or accessory position. Never had an issue this way. Maybe I will add a sender at some point. I've just always figured the temp sensor was just one more thing to fail.
 

hubedobeedo

3rd times a charm
Jul 18, 2013
1,713
Huntertown,IN
I'm using an unknown brand aluminum radiator, dual electric fan and shroud set up (likely an eBay special.) I have it powered by a 30 amp relay like I've done many times before, with the trigger wire going to a 25 amp accessory fuse on an aftermarket fuse block. Pretty sure the relay is wired, powered, and grounded properly, same as I've always done in the past. For some reason the 25 amp accessory fuse in the fuse block keeps blowing. Not right away and it could be days of driving before it pops. I do have both 12 inch fans on one relay but each fan says 80watts so 80w÷12v=6.6 amps each right? Shouldn't be drawing too much and a faulty fan could only blow the fuse on the load side of the relay correct? Or could a bad fan somehow blow a fuse on the trigger (coil) side of the relay?
what physical size fuse you using? i was using standard size and switched to large body size .the fuses i was using(good American brand) couldn't do the heat from draw hit.switched and fixed.
 

highper

New Member
Mar 24, 2011
12
Clinton, IA
what physical size fuse you using? i was using standard size and switched to large body size .the fuses i was using(good American brand) couldn't do the heat from draw hit.switched and fixed.
Using what I'd call standard size fuse. Think they're called ATO size. I'll look into that.
 

CorkyE

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Nov 4, 2004
12,631
Ringgold, GA
I never know how to reply to on these threads. Does everyone whos commented get a notification when I reply or only the individual I replied to?
On the top bar, click on your user name (Account) > Preference, scroll down to see Receive Notification When Someone... and make your choices.
 

badazz81z28

Veteran Member
May 4, 2001
23,864
Alabama
Certainly a lot of post for a simple problem.

One relay for two fans? No
One 30 Amp fuse for two fans? No

It’s wired incorrectly if this is how it is. You need two relays, you need two individual fused power sources (30 amp each). If it runs fine and happens sporadically, the wires are getting hot.

Electric fans constantly running isn’t a good thing either! You need to control them to be on when needed. High amp components constantly running isn’t a good thing.
 
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