Potential "flat tappet" oil (ZDDP replacement)

I was out at a track day today and got to chat with the Liquid Molly rep for a bit. In general I've never paid much attention to this brand, but not for any specific reason.
I asked about an oil for flat-tappet cams and he had a couple of recommendations.
This isn't an endorsement by me, but more me letting people know that a product exists that you don't see advertised.

The Touring High Tech SAE oil

Touring High Tech SAE 20W-50

Mineral based all-season motor oil, particularly suited for older generation high mileage gasoline and diesel vehicles. Provides a stable lubricating film even under extreme operating conditions. Designed with proven wear protection technology. Keeps rubber seals such as valve stem seals, crank...

www.liqui-moly.com

This is a natural base oil designed for older cars. He says the ZDDP content isn't that high but they use another additive to achieve the goals of protecting flat tappet cams. He uses this in his own 455 Buick.
I tend to be more of a fan of Full Synthetics but this may be a good options at <$60 for 5 Liters, it's cost competitive with the Job Gibbs oils

The rep also mentioned
This is an additive that's supposed to serve the purpose of a ZDDP additive (and it part of the oil mentioned above). Most of you know I'm not a big fan of oil additives - I want the chemistry to be included in the oil formulation. But if you want to use an additive, this might be worth exploring

Ligui-Moly has been pretty much a Euro product, not unlike Motul. With "Moly" in its name, I would suspect that is a basis for their products?

The Moly additive is available at AutoZone.

You need to watch "The Motor Oil Geek" YouTube channel! The Geek is Lake Speed, Jr. When he was working for Joe Gibbs Racing, HE is the architect of the Driven brand of motor oil they sell. He also has LOTS of connections in the lubrication labs, too.

There is a LOT more to the formulation of automotive-use motor oil than just base stocks and zddp. The base stocks are important, as Pennsylvania Crude was all about this in earlier times, but the types and amounts of anti-wear additives (of which zddp is just ONE, and different types of zddp for gas and diesel engines) and other items in the additive package (which includes moly for some brands).

As to involvement in motorsports sponsorships and such, Valvoline has probably been doing that since their first days in the earlier 20th century. Always saw their banners at major races in the 1960s pictures. Many old-line hot rodders tended to use their motor oil, back then, it seems. Seems the more recent virgin oil analysis results posted at www.bobistheoilguy.com forums, Valvoline has a good does of moly in them. Even with the latest API oil classifications.

So, investigate the virgin oil analysis posts at www.bobistheoilguy.com forums. Watch a lot of Mr. Speed, Jr's YT videos. Even the ones which pre-date his current "The Motor Oil Geek" channel vids. LOTS of interesting information!

Thanks for the product links.

Enjoy!
FS87LT

FWIW, i've ran my bone stock '79 350 on exactly that 'Touring High Tech' 20w50 for the last 6 years with NO additives.

Never had any problems, engine runs smooth, oil looks great, changing once a year before winter storage.

As you all know 20w50 has a lot of drag on your moving internals and takes your engine longer to get to redline. At least that’s what I have observed when I used to use it compared to 15w40, 10w40, 10w30 and 5w30.

I don't understand the need for additives when there's enough choices out there, then again, the manufactures of the additive products would make you believe your lucky that you have not had any problems and your engine has not blown up yet LOL.

It’s like the vitamins out there, it’s a billion dollar industry.

I should also note the MolyGen oils for racers
This stuff shows up under black light, so if you're hunting / watching for oil leaks on a race car, could be very useful. The rep tells me the glow in the dark qualities wear off in about 500 miles, but that could be a great for a race car. Lord knows 500 miles for oil in a race motor is an eternity.

FWIW, any customers car that we used GMs EOS in never got a rounded cam lobe. Maybe it was the regular oil changes or just coincidence, but it seemed to work.

G72Zed said:

I don't understand the need for additives when there's enough choices out there, then again, the manufactures of the additive products would make you believe your lucky that you have not had any problems and your engine has not blown up yet LOL.

Click to expand...

Don't get me started. I've had so many arguments with people about "Octane Boosters" over the years...

There have been 3 additives I've seen to be useful.
1) Techron concentrate fuel system cleaner. Years ago someone figured out if the fuel gauge is acting funny on a C5 Corvette, you can run the tank down to 25%, add in the big can of Techron, and drive the car for a few days it will unstick the full sender. Don't know why, but I know it's worked for me and stayed 'fixed' for a couple of years.
Do I believe it will clean out a clogged fuel injector... no.
Note:
BG Does offer a fuel system cleaning system that I do believe works. But it's not a 'can of magic', it's part of a larger process with external injectors and specialized tools. https://www.bgprod.com/services/gasoline-fuel-system/
This is more akin to a SeaFoam treatment than a fuel additive.
This is probably more useful on modern cars with direct injection where crap builds up on the valves or EFI cars that get oil buildup inside the intake manifold BEFORE the injectors.

2) ZDDP additives before specifically formulated Hot-Rod oils started being made. Now that you can just buy oils designed for flat-tappet cars, there's no reason for the additive.

3) Redline Water Wetter (and its contemporaries). This stuff is basically a chemical detergent you add to your coolant. This detergent doesn't clean anything, tt makes the coolant better 'coat' engine and radiator surfaces and thus improves heat transfer. Do you 'need' it... no. Your cooling system should be just fine to keep the car at proper operating temps. But it will in theory lower engine temperatures and improve warm-up time.


Pretty much everything else is useless

My first oil change recently using Valvoline VR1 10W-30 with zinc was a trip. I changed the oil and filter, then we took the car out for a spin about 8 miles up the road to a high school. Shut the engine down, then we walked around the football field track a few times and went back to check the oil on the stick.

The VR1 was so clear we had trouble finding it on the stick to tell how full it was! lol I pulled the stick out, wiped it off, dipped it back in and pulled it back out. Had to end up tilting the stick towards the sun light just right to even see the correct level on it. New experience for me after using regular oil mixed with zddp the past few years.

5 quart jug was a good deal at Walmart for $26.97 About $10 less than the regular Auto Parts stores had it...