Why?
15W-40 Oil For Hydraulic Roller SBC?
- Thread starter sandiego74
- Start date
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Those gas specs SM/SL are kinda trash by modern standards. SN+ is what almost all synthetic oils meet now
If the oil you are using does everything you need it to, and you have no issues, stick with the same oil, and change it religiously and you are going to be good 99% of the time with a proper quality oil.
Great oil pressure in some cases to some people is 5psi at 1,400 rpm idle.
I have dozens of customers that run their engines very very hard, but that first number ain’t 20-15 or even 10 or 5, those numbers are money LOL
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dcozzi
Veteran Member
My engine builder said to use straight 40wt Valvoline Racing so that is what I ran in a retrofit hydraulic roller setup.
f-body freak
Veteran Member
I've heard good things of Brad Penn. I've used it in my wagon(SBC 355) for years. I've heard that was the old Kendell oil. 
I've also, of late been drinking the "Amsoil kool-aid".
I know it's kind of a pain to order... membership & all, but I bought a Street Glide a few yrs back from the original owner who ran Amsoil in it & I wanted to continue that & I've found myself buying more of it for my fleet of vehicles, lol. I just changed all the fluids in my 2017 Silverado, trans, differentials, rear end... Still get free oil changes at the dealer, so my "frugal" a$$ continues to do that. 
I'm considering putting it in everything else tho
I've also, of late been drinking the "Amsoil kool-aid".
I know it's kind of a pain to order... membership & all, but I bought a Street Glide a few yrs back from the original owner who ran Amsoil in it & I wanted to continue that & I've found myself buying more of it for my fleet of vehicles, lol. I just changed all the fluids in my 2017 Silverado, trans, differentials, rear end... Still get free oil changes at the dealer, so my "frugal" a$$ continues to do that. I'm considering putting it in everything else tho
RE oil brands.
The smartest 'oil' folks I know, all say that brand doesn't matter. The API/ISLAC ratings on the bottle are the real engineering tests, everything else is marketing BS.
IE: Amsoil ultra super-duper oil getting an SN+ rating is the same as O'Reilly house brand oil getting an SN+ rating. They either meet the spec, or they don't.
The smartest 'oil' folks I know, all say that brand doesn't matter. The API/ISLAC ratings on the bottle are the real engineering tests, everything else is marketing BS.
IE: Amsoil ultra super-duper oil getting an SN+ rating is the same as O'Reilly house brand oil getting an SN+ rating. They either meet the spec, or they don't.
76z28
Veteran Member
Oil sheer and thinning from heat especially with no oil cooler
Look at the Motor Oil Geek. It changed my perspectives on thinner engine oils(I used to be a HUGE fan but have realized it's strictly for MPG)
Thinner oil also has less drag and gets you to redline quicker. I have drastically noticed a difference when I was using 5w30, 10w30 compared to 20w50.
Just talked to engine builder and he told me he built it with VR-1 20W-50 in mind. So that settles that.
Question is do I need to change it now? I just put in fresh 10W-30 in and planned to do another 500 miles before changing it again.
Question is do I need to change it now? I just put in fresh 10W-30 in and planned to do another 500 miles before changing it again.
How many miles have you put on the engine and how many oil changes?
