Front Upper Control Arm Frame Cross Shaft Mounting Bolts

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chknbone

Member
Jul 21, 2014
85
Durham, NC
So let's say that when someone took off the upper control arm on their '81 that they didn't know that the cross shaft mounting bolts were pressed in and they use an impact wrench to remove them which either stripped the groves on the bolt or in the holes on the mounting bracket (can't tell which just from eyeballing it). The result is that the bolts can now be "pressed in" by hand and don't have enough bite to hold by themselves when tightening down the nut. Not an issue when mounting because I.....I mean "the guy who did it"....can just rotate the control arm up for access to hold the bolt heads secure. However, I see it as a big problem when taking it to get an alignment after the entire front end has been put back together if the nuts ever need to be backed off and re-tightened to add/remove shims during an alignment...

Would doing a tiny spot weld be the way to go or is that just asking for another headache for someone else down the road? Would something like JB Weld work?

Thanks.
 

camarochevy1970

Veteran Member
Jan 23, 2003
8,385
Pittsburgh, PA
I'm going to add a related question to your topic. I have one of these bolts that is loose, but the suspension is all bolted together, and am trying to figure out how to get it apart
 

grzewnicki

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Dec 9, 2009
4,223
Gordon from Jacksonville Fl
I'd do the tack weld, probably at least two sides of the bolt head. If your gonna replace the original bolts make sure you use a good hi quality bolt, probably grade 8. The amount of times the nuts are taken off and on is few and far between so I don't see a problem with a tack weld.

and in respect to camarochev1970, your gona have to take the upper ball joint loose from the spindle and rotate the control arm to get access to the head. I got aftermarket arms on my car and I can get in there no problem, the stock control arms as large as they are prevents you guys from just going in and getting right on it.
 
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rburrow87

Veteran Member
Apr 6, 2016
155
San Diego, CA
One side of mine is stripped for whatever reason, but I found that I could slip a flex head ratchet in under the arm from the front and rear (maybe both from the front?) to hold the bolt. In fact, I forgot they were stripped and I saw the guy doing the alignment guy do it like it happens all the time. He also failed to fully tighten them and the shims fell out the next day, but that wasn't because of the stripped splines...

I don't know what happens if you have it at full on original nose up ride height though, maybe there isn't room in that situation? And having the rubber flaps over the upper arms on the inner fender wouldn't help either when doing it solo.

If you tack weld it, just make sure it's in a spot where you can grind it off without it being a huge hassle if you ever need to. The headers on my BBC get very close and if they were ceramic coated, I'd have to pop a couple of those bolts loose and move them over to get the headers in and out without gouging the coating. But they're cheap rusty ones so I just let them get scratched up, adds character.
 

Jeep43

Veteran Member
Mar 30, 1999
1,379
Connecticut
Maybe try putting some wire thru the hole and pressing them back in. Maybe the interference will keep them from turning.
 

Twisted_Metal

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 26, 2004
35,788
Bloomington, MN
I did the same thing years ago. At the time you could still buy replacements for them. I took a ratchet and just spun the bolts and also stripped the knurls. The control arm mount was not affected and I highly doubt are . I would not tack weld anything as it will be a pain to remove later for what ever reason.

Edit: see below.
https://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro...ud-bolt-and-locking-nuts-upper-1970-1979.html

OP has an 81... Are those bolts the same size? (Link says 70-79)
 

chknbone

Member
Jul 21, 2014
85
Durham, NC
Awesome. Thanks for all the input everyone. I'm not at the point of re-installing yet so I haven't decided on a solution yet but it's nice to know that I'm not completely crazy for thinking about tack welding them. I also like the idea of trying the wire solution...

I'm definitely not against buying new bolts but didn't want to spend the $15-$20 on them if the problem is that I've worn the hole on the mounting brackets as opposed to the splines on the bolts (I've got PLENTY of other things that need purchasing/replacing so every little bit I can save here and there helps)

Thanks again.
 
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