Manual Brakes Conversion for Drag Racing

[KennyM]

https://www.facebook.com/kennymorr/media_set?set=a.667060410029358.1073741877.100001762154203&type=3

I hope yall can see these

 

[KennyM]

Hey guys I hate to beat a dead horse.I am gonna have to basically redue things cause its been crazy.I have wrote all the part numbers down from top of the start of topic.I have the fenco nm1822 which now is a Duralast.I have brakes but,they still not right.I took it all back off and gonna start from scratch.I have a Wildwood adjustable pv and I do have the jegs line lock.I guess some questions is#1-Do I need a residual valve to the front with my Mc in stock location with running disc/disc brakes?
#2-Do I need a 10lb residual valve to the rear with a 8.8 gear?
#3-Are yall using the same factory hardline to the rear?
#4-I noticed at the parts list they was the fittings 258430-could those that was from autozone be what I need or just stick to the way kyle has his?
I hate to ask yall this and bring it back up but,I sure could use the help.
Note *Im gonna be slow due to I had my left leg above the knee amputated on feb 17th.-I am trying but,its sore.I am working real hard to get back in the seat for sure but,want to be safe.I get my c-leg I hope in 2-3 weeks.I will sure thank yall for yalls patience with me in this time.*

 

[sponge003]

I can answer a couple of the items

I did not run a proprtioning valve or 10 pound residual to the rear brakes

I ran stock brake line size also to the rear

 

[KennyM]

I can answer a couple of the items

I did not run a proprtioning valve or 10 pound residual to the rear brakes

I ran stock brake line size also to the rear

Ahh ok -thank you-this does help alot-I may just be more jumping the gun and worrying to much on it.Thank you for taking time with me on this.I have a line lock and hoping to put it in line for the fronts .

 

[camaro71/holland]

Inspired by this thread, I bought a Dorman M39476 M/C. Made my choice after comparing different types in this article:

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/RacingMasterCylPN.html

A couple of remarks:
1. Yes, you will have to elongate the mounting holes a bit;
2. By choosing this type (24mm cylinder, so a bit under 1") you don't need any adapter flares as both exits are 3/8";
3. Despite of earlier descriptions, this type seems to have a larger reservoir in front and smaller to the rear (only hard data was collected by sticking a finger in the reservoir and comparing the size/distance);
4. By doing this I found out that both reservoirs ARE connected (could feel an opening above a baffle);
5. The unit is really lightweight. Might be even lighter than an alu willwood cylinder, but will have to check.

So far my findings. Just want to let you know...

 

[camaro71/holland]

Got more data on weight:

Wilwood M/C: 1120gr or 2.47lbs
Dorman M39476: 870gr or 1.92lbs

Difference can be even more when topped up with fluid, as the cylinders on the Wilwood piece seem to have bigger capacity.

Overal, not a huge difference, but every gram/ounce is another one. Difference with a stock, iron unit is much more....

 

[Evil Twin]

I did mine yesterday and all I did was use the master that was already there. The car stops better without the booster.

 

[Evil Twin]

I think the biggest thing to remember here is to move the hole on your brake peddle up 1 inch center to center. Some are drilled for both and some aren't.

 

[Tonimus]

I installed Malibu Dave's kit on my '78 and I am super happy with it. Stops really well and no prop valve needed. https://www.manualbrakes.com/2nd-gen--70--81.html