Paint stripping/rust removal

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larrylarry

Veteran Member
Dec 22, 2011
1,837
San Antonio Tx
Harbor freight sells a sand blaster that sorta looks like a paint gun,you can use that for deep pits.what I do is sand blast the pits then clean with alcohol then brush on some rustolem rusty metal primer, let it dry overnight then sand it off. The primer will fill in the pits somewhat then I apply filler over the pits. If you do sand blast be aware that the sand goes every where,in your hair,shirt,pants,and all over the car,do it outside.
 
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TX79Z28

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
May 3, 2007
1,136
San Antonio, TX
For whatever it's worth. Barry (SPI) told me that MINOR surface rust is OK, and that 2 coats of epoxy will starve it of oxygen. I am NOT saying that the OP should not get it all out, however, if he is going to use SPI epoxy I thought he should know SPI's take on surface rust. And from my experiences with their products and Barry himself....I believe them!
 

earlysecond

Veteran Member
Aug 9, 2002
5,618
Altoona, PA
Better off to let it than treat it

in my experience and research. . .you are better off to let it than treat with any chemical. Converting to me is a mis-nomer. Let me ask this, rhetorically of course, what are you converting it to? Is what you have converted it to a worthy substrate for the rest of your paint and bodywork?

If you want your nice paint to last, get rid of the rust. Sand it, blast it, use whatever tool you need to to get into the crevices and pits. Plain and simple, if it is there, it will come back, maybe not soon but it will.

The first time I did my Camaro, I left some "stable" rust in the bottom of a quarter. It was a shortcut but the marketing team at a certain paint over rust company had me convinced that if I put enough of their product on it, I would never again have to worry. I did "treat" and apply the product per the instructions. I applied waterproof filler. In 5 years, the rust came back through the filler and the paint. The car was driven in the rain exactly once when it was unavoidable, it was washed less than 20 times.

Long story short. . .do it once and do it right or, like me, you will do it more than once.

I would not rely on any product, including my beloved SPI epoxy to hide rust on a project car, its just too much to ask!

Good Luck,
Brent
 
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hig

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 11, 2009
262
Central NY
Thanks for all the replies. I think my game plan will be to DA the old original paint off (what's left of it) then either use Naval Jelly (keeping it wet with plastic) or carefully spot sand blast the remaining pits to remove any trace.

On the SPI forum site Naval Jelly is the only thing I've seen recommended. I've never looked into it but I guess soda blasting can leave a film that if it's not neutralized properly can come back and get you.

Thanks for the advice guys.
 

hig

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 11, 2009
262
Central NY
TX79Z28 said:
For whatever it's worth. Barry (SPI) told me that MINOR surface rust is OK, and that 2 coats of epoxy will starve it of oxygen. I am NOT saying that the OP should not get it all out, however, if he is going to use SPI epoxy I thought he should know SPI's take on surface rust. And from my experiences with their products and Barry himself....I believe them!


I think I've read that on the SPI forum site but I'm afaid it would bite me.
 

boardog

Veteran Member
Dec 8, 2006
1,079
north ga
looks like just surface rust. i would not advise to use a rust converter. barry is a chemist, he knows his products and would not give bad advice. looking at the pic it just surface rust. take a 80 grit d/a and find out what you have.
 

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