The Germ

  • Thread starter Germs87
  • Start date
  • This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
IMG_0122.JPG
So just got my moms old nasty Camaro towed to the house today last time it ran was in 08. Lot more work than I anticipated she needs a full tear down and redo. But luckily I have 13 years before my kid can drive so I've got time.

Not sure how the wife's going to like it taking up the garage, Since it's our laundry room. Definitely need to put it on casters.

Time to disassemble and get to work.

One question though, is it worth pulling the fame? How susceptible to rust are they? And how hard is it to line them back up.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0123.JPG
    IMG_0123.JPG
    80.1 KB · Views: 165
  • IMG_0125.JPG
    IMG_0125.JPG
    89.9 KB · Views: 190
  • IMG_0127.JPG
    IMG_0127.JPG
    61.4 KB · Views: 167
  • IMG_0129.JPG
    IMG_0129.JPG
    61.7 KB · Views: 184
  • IMG_0130.JPG
    IMG_0130.JPG
    68.3 KB · Views: 179

grzewnicki

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Dec 9, 2009
4,223
Gordon from Jacksonville Fl
You don't have to pull the frame, but your gonna want to change out the mounts that go between frame and body, no car as old as ours has good subframe mount bushings unless it is low mileage garage kept car. On the frame, Those points are susceptible to rust (easily repairable). The car has spent its life in the Washington area? If you have floor pan sections to replace usually it is easier if the frame is out. Definitely come up with a game plan, I started my car as strong quick street car without many mods, then changed to do more an autocross type car, not full on, just springs, shocks, lower control arms, solid body bushings and subframe connectors. Just that little bit of work ($2500 approx) gave me a great handling car. But I ended up re-spending money. Do not, I repeat do not throw anything away if it is in decent shape, keep it till you are done, just in case. You'll look through the Classic Industries, Rick's Camaro, NPD catalogues and see, woo I can get a brand new one of these and a new one of those. Well sometimes it is better to restore the old one due to fit and finish, sometimes you have to bite the bullet and buy new, or you can look at camaro parts world on ebay, he strips a lot of camaro's and parts are available there. Then there is the F body store he has some used parts for sale too. I'd spend some time on here looking at what builds people have done and decide which road you want to head down. you can do a concourse restoration where it looks like it just came off the factory floor, or go over it and replace all the worn suspension, steering and brake parts with stock items (all that stuff is available, rockauto has a lot), generally that is gonna be cheapest route, costs a little more to go the autocross route and there are definetly different levels, from full on custom front subframes to just the items I mentioned I used on my car. When you disassemble take pics as you go, bag and tag every item in ziplock freezer bags. highly recommend the Assembly manual and the service manual, lots of pics in the assy manual, and good info in the service manual, can be had for about $50 for the pair. Sometimes people have them for sale on here. Last off don't get in a rush, I was probably on the short time end, did mine in about 3 years, complete frame off job, seen people on here take 10 years, depends on $$ and how much free time you have. If you have ever wanted a welder, working on one of these is a great excuse to get one if you have some rot to take care of. Floors are good places to learn how to mig sheetmetal. I wish I had gotten one and did my patch panels myself. Finally bought one after my car was complete, Dang thing has come in so handly over the 4 years Ive had it now, not just on the car but other things.in for me, but could have done it myself, for about $4-500 you can get a good Hobart or Miller machine that runs on 110 volts. You'll find tons of people on here ready to lend a hand. Don't be afraid to ask, might think it is stupid but I wished I had asked more questions, would have saved me some time and money.
 

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Thank for the info about used parts! I much prefer GM parts to repops for the fit and finish alone. I plan on subframe connectors control arms 4-link and coil overs. Lq4 motor with ls3 top end and a t56. Other than that is going back to stock. Pretty much a full resto with modern parts.
 
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

Green hornet

Veteran Member
Oct 11, 2015
2,183
North Bay, CA
Welcome aboard. A lot of knowledgeable people here to help you with any questions / issues you may have with the car. I would love to be a fly on the wall when you tell your wife her laundry room has just become an auto shop.
 

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Welcome aboard. A lot of knowledgeable people here to help you with any questions / issues you may have with the car. I would love to be a fly on the wall when you tell your wife her laundry room has just become an auto shop.
She's more Pissed about the 350$ tow lol
 

Bandit723

Veteran Member
Oct 1, 2016
5,002
Waupaca WI
You don't have to pull the frame, but your gonna want to change out the mounts that go between frame and body, no car as old as ours has good subframe mount bushings unless it is low mileage garage kept car. On the frame, Those points are susceptible to rust (easily repairable). The car has spent its life in the Washington area? If you have floor pan sections to replace usually it is easier if the frame is out. Definitely come up with a game plan, I started my car as strong quick street car without many mods, then changed to do more an autocross type car, not full on, just springs, shocks, lower control arms, solid body bushings and subframe connectors. Just that little bit of work ($2500 approx) gave me a great handling car. But I ended up re-spending money. Do not, I repeat do not throw anything away if it is in decent shape, keep it till you are done, just in case. You'll look through the Classic Industries, Rick's Camaro, NPD catalogues and see, woo I can get a brand new one of these and a new one of those. Well sometimes it is better to restore the old one due to fit and finish, sometimes you have to bite the bullet and buy new, or you can look at camaro parts world on ebay, he strips a lot of camaro's and parts are available there. Then there is the F body store he has some used parts for sale too. I'd spend some time on here looking at what builds people have done and decide which road you want to head down. you can do a concourse restoration where it looks like it just came off the factory floor, or go over it and replace all the worn suspension, steering and brake parts with stock items (all that stuff is available, rockauto has a lot), generally that is gonna be cheapest route, costs a little more to go the autocross route and there are definetly different levels, from full on custom front subframes to just the items I mentioned I used on my car. When you disassemble take pics as you go, bag and tag every item in ziplock freezer bags. highly recommend the Assembly manual and the service manual, lots of pics in the assy manual, and good info in the service manual, can be had for about $50 for the pair. Sometimes people have them for sale on here. Last off don't get in a rush, I was probably on the short time end, did mine in about 3 years, complete frame off job, seen people on here take 10 years, depends on $$ and how much free time you have. If you have ever wanted a welder, working on one of these is a great excuse to get one if you have some rot to take care of. Floors are good places to learn how to mig sheetmetal. I wish I had gotten one and did my patch panels myself. Finally bought one after my car was complete, Dang thing has come in so handly over the 4 years Ive had it now, not just on the car but other things.in for me, but could have done it myself, for about $4-500 you can get a good Hobart or Miller machine that runs on 110 volts. You'll find tons of people on here ready to lend a hand. Don't be afraid to ask, might think it is stupid but I wished I had asked more questions, would have saved me some time and money.
Wow longest welcome post that i have seen yet.
 

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Tore the trunk apart, only two small rust holes and some rust on the lip. Floor pans are pretty sold only one decent side hole in the passenger front and a few others throughout. Must say she's still pretty solid for a leaky t-top car that sat in Washington rain for 10 years. Oh and a hope that mouse got eaten lil bastard.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0134.JPG
    IMG_0134.JPG
    15.8 KB · Views: 130

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Pictures
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0135.JPG
    IMG_0135.JPG
    45.9 KB · Views: 166
  • IMG_0136.JPG
    IMG_0136.JPG
    86.9 KB · Views: 184
  • IMG_0143.JPG
    IMG_0143.JPG
    45.5 KB · Views: 177
  • IMG_0144.JPG
    IMG_0144.JPG
    42.4 KB · Views: 177
  • IMG_0146.JPG
    IMG_0146.JPG
    77.3 KB · Views: 153
  • IMG_0147.JPG
    IMG_0147.JPG
    45.4 KB · Views: 172
  • IMG_0148.JPG
    IMG_0148.JPG
    83.8 KB · Views: 179
  • IMG_0149.JPG
    IMG_0149.JPG
    74.5 KB · Views: 164
  • IMG_0150.JPG
    IMG_0150.JPG
    55.7 KB · Views: 188
  • IMG_0152.JPG
    IMG_0152.JPG
    66.8 KB · Views: 188

Bandit723

Veteran Member
Oct 1, 2016
5,002
Waupaca WI
That's quite the mouse nest yikes!. Looks like there is a bit of rust issues to deal with. This one might take some time to get into shape.
 

Latest posts

Top