Thougts on these Camaros?

[badazz81z28]

Honestly....If I had $35-$40k...I wouldn't by any of them!! They all have their issues that would make me wonder "what else"... If you just want a car that has great body and paint and want to modify everything else, don't get a Z or a SS....Get a plain car because you won't be paying for a name for an option.

Car #1: Look at the Header Panel and fitment...Its hit something there. A large gap now remains between it and the grille. Not a real RS, just bumperettes on a full bumper car. Dangerous seat belts...Interior is cheap and poorly done.

Car #2: Nicer looking...The pits on the VIN tag indicate to me this car was probably rusty at one point. Rattle can paint job underdeath...Door panels are puffy PUI crap, wrong steering wheel for a 70. Also not a real RS...Original fenders are a +, looks like a flip car to me.

Car #3: Both fenders look to be repops, Rear bumperette holes?, Repop upper door panels (They are too short side to side), Puffy PUI door panels, Crooked door handle? lol, Don't like the lowering blocks, Real RS, looks to be a real Z...I would say the best of the 4, but the price is high.

Car#4: Repop fenders, something is going on with the door skin as seen from the inside. Nothing like needing sticks to hold things open, interior door panels also PUI, undercarriage is ugh...

I think all these cars are overpriced...I think they were bought, lip stick and to be sold for a profit. None of them are restored and the undercarriage tells the story. Anyone who would tear a car down and blast it and do the paint right, would have done the bottom. These have quick paint jobs to give the impression they are restored to unsuspecting buyers...

 

[Rustles]

I didn't read a very detailed description of what you want and what your goal is for your car, so it's hard to comment. Could be anything from a "concourse" Z28 (documented, numbers matching near perfect car), to a ratty plain Jane that you want to completely restore yourself. Those 4 cars seem to be a collection of "dogs breakfast" cars with various attributes and shortcomings. I started with one of those so that's not necessarily a bad thing but knew my goal was an inexpensive (that's very relative) car that I could modify to create my version of a Pro Touring car on a budget. I.E. I knew what I wanted and where I was going with the car.

The best advice I can give is to decide what you want and then buy the very best car you can afford. With these cars you want someone else to have paid for the restoration or other work you want - it often costs 10X what you can get out of a car to build what you want. For instance if you want an LS car with a high end engine, the engine alone could easily be a $15K acquisition - buy a car with the LS conversion already done.

Lastly, I will repeat what others have said - if you're not qualified to assess a car have a pro go over the car for you.

 

[Allen B]

I agree with badazz81z28, especially if you are not looking for a documented original RS or Z28. A very well maintained original or properly restored early 2nd gen is probably going to be a notch above the pricing on the ones you have found, especially a documented RS/Z28. I agree that these all look to be what I always referred to as "lipstick on a pig".

10k to 15k more might seem like a lot when you are buying the car but it won't get you far if you buy a "rust-or-ation" and end up replacing pans or rear quarters after the rust comes through later. Ask for pictures of the cars in the restoration or painting process, someone that is proud of their work will have them to show what has or has not been done. In a perfect world you will see the car in bare metal to evaluate the rust and the quality of any metal replacement work.

Too bad you are not looking for a late 2nd gen, I have an honest maintained car in my collection that I would let go.

PS after looking at the car at streetside in Nashville, it seems reasonable except the hood to header fitment which might be corrected some with some shims. I also do not like the split bumper without the proper nose, parking lights and header/grille.

 

[manicmechanic]

Yes there is issue's in both the first two cars, that's all I looked at. Looking at the Reverse lights in the first cat one on the left is twisted out of orientation, and the second car console has issues with the lid and passenger side of it. I would recommend you find something you can go personally see vs picking from the internet. If your going to make a lot of changes, touches no sense in paying big bucks to start with. My 71 Firebird started life as a 6cyl, powerglide so I can do whatever I want without issue's of originality.

 

[badazz81z28]

Ask for pictures of the cars in the restoration or painting process, someone that is proud of their work will have them to show what has or has not been done. In a perfect world you will see the car in bare metal to evaluate the rust and the quality of any metal replacement work.



View attachment 97058

This is where I went wrong with my car and now paying the price! It had somewhat of a recent paint job when I bought it...turns out the header panel was wrecked...the pass door was hit, both quarters were hit...the car's body is a mess! I thought I got a good deal on it....I have since bought a new header panel, a lower valance, about to buy two fenders and looking for a door. All GM pieces mind you so you can imagine how timely and expensive it was. I will still need to tackle the 1/4s when I do get around to the re-paint. That $18K car I turned down at the time doesn't look like such a bad deal now....

 

[DarthBlock]

Thanks all for your input and honesty. Certainly a lot of good points made and valuable insight. This my first venture into buying a 50 year old vehicle. So, last thing I want is to get into a massive headache (mechanically & cosmetically) of a vehicle.

 

[badazz81z28]

Thanks all for your input and honesty. Certainly a lot of good points made and valuable insight. This my first venture into buying a 50 year old vehicle. So, last thing I want is to get into a massive headache (mechanically & cosmetically) of a vehicle.

What you need is a sec gen nut like one of us to look over the car for you. I don’t think I would trust an inspector. There are just some things to look at that is particular to these cars.