Pinion Yoke replacement and pinion nut torque

[Fbird]

yes OP really needs to follow Knukle's advice......method = BOOK

I was merely addressing the first part relating to

"mark the nut" nonsense

there are times that this method CAN be used in full confidence ...... OP's issue is NOT ONE OF THOSE TIMES.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

yes OP really needs to follow Knukle's advice......method = BOOK

I was merely addressing the first part relating to


there are times that this method CAN be used in full confidence ...... OP's issue is NOT ONE OF THOSE TIMES.

It's black magic voodoo every time it's used. You're hoping you get it back where it was and not have an issue. The torque method works every time and you're not relying on "luck" to get everything in the right position. Understand how it works and use the proper technique and you won't have any issues.

 

[7dcamaro]

Guys, I understand this isn't the "book" method. If I'm interpreting all the replies correctly am I correct that after installing the new 1350 yoke and pinion seal, new nut and washer.....that if I torque the nut to 150 ft. lbs I'll be ok?

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Guys, I understand this isn't the "book" method. If I'm interpreting all the replies correctly am I correct that after installing the new 1350 yoke and pinion seal, new nut and washer.....that if I torque the nut to 150 ft. lbs I'll be ok?

Make sure everything is seated after to change the yoke. Sometimes in the effort to get the yoke off the bearings will shift on the pinion shaft and the nut will tighten but the outer bearing binds slightly and won't slide all the way back in place. I generally tighten the nut to spec (150lbs) tap the yoke inward toward the "pumpkin" (firmly but not crazy) and then tap it outward away from the pumpkin. Shake the crap out of it and make sure there is zero movement forward or back. Re-torque the nut at 150lbs and call it good.

Put RTV on the yoke splines, and even with a new nut use lock tight on the threads.