Q-JET for the street is a good choice
Engine decision
- Thread starter Oldman74
- Start date
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I think 375 is easily attainable with a 355.I was over that(1987) with a ft 355,cam dynamics 284 enegizercam,rhoads lifters,stock heads.Everything car craft told me to buy,lol
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383s are great.I had one back in 1991 in a 69 chevelle.
I should have stated it better. 350/375 meant hp/torque goals but I like your thinking.
That’s exactly the look I’m going for, except with headers. Nice build!
I did a ZZ383 Shortblock, Voodoo roller cam. High Lift Vortecs It's really a made for torque deal. It's not always about HP. And I did change the AC hoses
I’ve been doing some local searching for engines and have found a few potential candidates. Some are TBI (likely 638 blocks), some are Vortec, some are complete engines with under 125k miles at less than $1,000 and others are bare blocks at less than $300. Do those prices seem reasonable?
Not opposed to a complete Vortec since I could sell the heads and other parts but I’m aware of the risks with getting a less than healthy bottom end and being out more money. I’m also aware of the potential costs savings if it is healthy. I don’t imagine I’ll put more than 3-4K miles a year on it so it would be nice just to put new bearings in.
If I go with a bare block, it seems most new cranks for 1 piece RMS engines are cast. That surprises me a bit. Eagle and Scat offer a forged crank in 3.48 stroke but I’m not sure I’ll need forged, and I’ve heard of more frequent quality issues with both. Are the complete rotating assemblies any good, or am I better off piecing together? Should I be considering building a 383 if I start with a bare block?
I’ve been doing so much reading on the 638 and 880 blocks and I’m fairly confident I could work with either. I’ve done basic machining and I have nice drills and taps. I’ve done a lot of that on industrial equipment over the years. I’ve also used a lot of precision measuring equipment in the past so I intend to buy a couple of nice micrometers and a dial bore gauge.
So many questions. Thanks for the help.
Not opposed to a complete Vortec since I could sell the heads and other parts but I’m aware of the risks with getting a less than healthy bottom end and being out more money. I’m also aware of the potential costs savings if it is healthy. I don’t imagine I’ll put more than 3-4K miles a year on it so it would be nice just to put new bearings in.
If I go with a bare block, it seems most new cranks for 1 piece RMS engines are cast. That surprises me a bit. Eagle and Scat offer a forged crank in 3.48 stroke but I’m not sure I’ll need forged, and I’ve heard of more frequent quality issues with both. Are the complete rotating assemblies any good, or am I better off piecing together? Should I be considering building a 383 if I start with a bare block?
I’ve been doing so much reading on the 638 and 880 blocks and I’m fairly confident I could work with either. I’ve done basic machining and I have nice drills and taps. I’ve done a lot of that on industrial equipment over the years. I’ve also used a lot of precision measuring equipment in the past so I intend to buy a couple of nice micrometers and a dial bore gauge.
So many questions. Thanks for the help.
