Rag Joint replacement, Power Steering, Headers and A/C... How did you do it?

[C4Racer]

I’ve done it. I think I just replaced the rag joint. I had the steering box off since it was getting replaced at the same time. I really don’t remember the details but I also don’t remember that it was much of a chore at all either.

 

[biker]

I dont remember exact details, but I separated the rag joint from the steering box with no problem from above, without removing or loosenjng the steering box. (I did remove it later).

I also pulled the shaft out. I know the shaft doesnt "wear out", but the collapsible part does seize up. Considering that there is a bit of movement between the subframe and body, it's nice to have the shaft freed up. Probably easier on the steering box.

I used a u-joint, but probably would not again. A good rag joint is nice and tight and isolates vibes well.

Also get under and have a really close look at tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm. On jackstands with the steering locked, you can use your feet to work a wheel back and forth and look closely for play in those parts,

 

[need-for-speed]

Problem... Steering has become overly sloppy over the past decade and I highly suspect the rag joint as the cause.
I know it's still the factory part in there.
I will have to take the plastic cover off to inspect the rag joint first.

First question... It looks like one of the power steering lines goes through the cover.
Will I need to undo the lines to get it out of the way?

I watched a YouTube video of a guy who did the whole process (80 Camaro) from above and he never unbolted the steering box from the frame.
(His primary tool was a ball peen hammer!)

It looked like a real PITA to try to do it that way and I have an A/C compressor situated above the shaft, which reduces access.
(Especially if I have to swing a hammer near ceramic coated headers. )



Looking at my Haynes manual... It gives the following instructions:
(This is very different from the way the guy in the video approached this job.)

1. Remove the intermediate shaft flange to flexible coupling (rag joint) retaining bolts.
2. Remove the steering box to frame bolts (3) and lower the steering box.
3. Push the intermediate shaft rearwards and rotate it out of the way.
4. Remove the coupling clamp bolt and remove the rag joint.

5. Install rag joint to steering box.
6. Install the coupling clamp bolt.
7. Install the intermediate shaft to coupling bolts (loosely).
8. Reattach the power steering box to the frame and torque everything.

All of that SOUNDS simple enough but the video I watched showed the rag joint was riveted to the intermediate shaft (rather than bolted).
(There's no mention of rivets or even removing the bolt holding the intermediate shaft to the steering column, in my Haynes manual.)
Guy in the video used a cutting wheel to remove the rivets and I don't see how I'm going to be able to do that under the car with the intermediate shaft still attached at the upper end.

Will I have to undo the upper intermediate shaft and pull the whole thing out the bottom to replace the rag joint?
Will the power steering box actually lower enough to get that shaft out of there (without disconnecting the pitman arm, lines etc.) or am I going to have to unbolt the A/C compressor and pull it out the top side?

I know several of you guys have replaced the rag joint and I'm not really interested in using one of the universal joint replacements.
I just need to know the best way to approach this without excessive disassembly.

I was able to figure out the proper rag joint for my car and RockAuto has it in stock.

View attachment 207149

Thanks, in advance, for any tips you can provide!!!

What year is your Camaro?

 

[Twisted_Metal]

What year is your Camaro?

It’s an 80.

 

[need-for-speed]

It’s an 80.

Thx.

 

[1980Z-28]

Problem... Steering has become overly sloppy over the past decade and I highly suspect the rag joint as the cause.
I know it's still the factory part in there.
I will have to take the plastic cover off to inspect the rag joint first.

First question... It looks like one of the power steering lines goes through the cover.
Will I need to undo the lines to get it out of the way?

I didn't replace the rag joint, but did replace the intermediate shaft with a PTFB U-joint setup. Didn't need to remove the box from the subframe (wouldn'tneed to for the rag joint replacement, either). I loosened it, but didn't need to remove it. Didn't need to move the steering pump or A/C compressor, either. It's tight in there. I'd recommended removing the shaft from the car to change out the rag joint. Just leave all steering where its at and it'll all slide back together. For the plastic cover, I cut it to slip it off. Ultimately just left it off when I put it all together.

 

[75Maro]

I dont remember exact details, but I separated the rag joint from the steering box with no problem from above, without removing or loosenjng the steering box. (I did remove it later).

I also pulled the shaft out. I know the shaft doesnt "wear out", but the collapsible part does seize up. Considering that there is a bit of movement between the subframe and body, it's nice to have the shaft freed up. Probably easier on the steering box.

I used a u-joint, but probably would not again. A good rag joint is nice and tight and isolates vibes well.

Also get under and have a really close look at tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm. On jackstands with the steering locked, you can use your feet to work a wheel back and forth and look closely for play in those parts,

Same happened to me shaft was seized up

 

[Zspoiler2]

In my 1979 Z-28 RS when I had my steering box rebuilt. .I rebuilt my tilt wheel column with a kit from Chevy. I took the steering shaft completely apart ,cleaned it then had it Chema-Chromed .Along with a new rag joint I took apart and also had done , Then regreased it and put it bag together using polished stainless steel bolts. I replaced the boot with a clutch rod boot from a Chevelle , I built my own lines with #8 An lines and fittings . Added a remote oil filter and a cooler ,on the low pressure side . I just took the A/C compressor totally off.

 

[black_aerocoupe]

On the smaller dia. disc, (started 79? 80?) the parts stores used to have the dorman piece, with half the bolts to do the job. Great, buy two.

I bought a whole int. shaft at the dealer when the small disc just wasn't listed, or stocked. It's great when the internet catches up later.

The lower splined end and lower shaft shouldn't be worn out. Grind rivets and assemble with bolts.

The upper joint attached to the steering column can have some wear. The AMC stuff with Saginaw parts used similar shafts. So I have sourced a parts kit and a boot from a jeep supplier that worked. The boot isn't GM style but works fine. 18018.01 Omix Ada.

 

[72BIGBLOCK]

If I remember correctly, I completely disassembled the rag joint. the rag joint splits into about three different pieces, the part that attaches to the shaft, the center rubber part and the front cover. When I loosened all the hardware, I was able to just massage it out gently. I believe it slides around two and it gives you enough movement to get it off.

I also just did this on my Celica and it was a similar process. Disassembled completely. Good luck I hope that helps