81 auto to 4 spd conversion NO CLUTCH HOLE

[-=79z28=-]

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1763137&postcount=7

 

[doublez]

Now to mount the z bar bracket. Do you know if the hole are threaded, I havent looked closely at mine yet. My kit says to mount the z bar bracket on the outside of the frame.

Its easiest to remove the inner fender or at least the rear bolts to access the rear bolts for the z bar bracket. I haven't did this on my 80 yet but I checked the holes and they are not threaded. It seems to me the factory bolts on any that I have removed were a 5/16 " self tapping bolt/screw

Kevin

 

[drewandkellie]

Conversion Complete

Just wanted to finish the thread by saying the conversion is done. It was not as bad as I thought. (i.e. I did it on my Buddies Lift). Only suprise was that I I had to remove my oil sending switch, it gets hit by the Zbar. Plugged it off. To difference is phenomenal. The muncie shifts like butter and makes driving the car a pure pleasure. The car just feels way more responsive. RPMs dropped, a bit at highway speed too.

To answer the next guys questions, I:
Used to the larger (and cheaper) Truck bellhousing
used the original crossmember, perfect fit
reused the driveshaft, exact swap
The expensive pieces are:
-Tranny $500
-New Hurst Shifter and linkage $300
Most of other pieces will run about a $100 each:
-Flywheel
-Clutch linkage
-11" Clutch
-etc.
My conversion ran about $1100 (I got the muncie for free)

I enjoy it so much I will probably do the same conversion on the 1968 Camaro my wife bought me last month for our 20th anniversary, unfortunately its a TH400 a much less agreeable conversion as far driveshaft and crossmember.
Thanks for all the help, my 81 runs beautifully with the new Posi rear, vortec heads, and now new muncie four speed.

 

[77nomad]

I know this is a done deal but here is what I used to locate the hole.

I used the firewall section from the junkyard car for a template and bolted it in place where the master cylinder goes.