Another peanut port question.

[Lager]

Look at the list number on the choke horn, if it's a 3310-1, it's a 780 CFM and has (should have) down leg boosters, might even have the "spivy" tabs on the primaries. Good find. Easy to covert to a rear metering block, or custom make tunable jets for the plates, been there done that with those.

LOL, that's a funny story there Lager. And yes, many of our Beer's not only taste good, there not shy on the alcohol content, 5-6 or even 7% is common. The craft breweries up hear are great also.

On the choke horn its printed 3310-2 and from I read it means that its a 750 with the straight leg boosters.. The man already converted it to a secondary metering block and added the elec choke and its in excellent condition.. Im planning on trying it out using the 1 inch spacer after I take it apart and see what size jets and power valve is in there. Looks like my project for this weekend or even earlier if the rain goes away here. Thanks for the imput..

 

[G72Zed]

Ah, the 3310-1 are getting scarce finding them used. I have a few to rebuild, there's a 3310 down leg in there I think.

The straight leg 750 should work out good for you, keep us in the loop.

 

[1980RS]

I have done the back to back test with the down leg booster and the straight booster 3310's in the late 80's. The straight leg boosters were quicker and faster then the down leg 3310 by a tenth and 1 mph.

 

[G72Zed]

I have seen the same, and the exact opposite, only way to find out is test it, all application specific.

 

[1980RS]

I have seen the same, and the exact opposite, only way to find out is test it, all application specific.

Like they say, no 2 carbs are a like.

 

[Lager]

JUst installed the 3310 750 this past weekend but before, I took it apart and made sure all the fuel and air passageways were clean and clear and they were. It has both power valves at 6.5 and that seems to be stock, 72 and 76 jets so I left them alone. I did add a vacuum secondary quick change cap so I could adjust the springs easier then bolted it on on top of the 1 inch open spacer I already had on there. I did use the slightly stronger yellow secondary secondary spring just because thats what worked best in the 670 cfm carb using the spacer for the initial test. All I had to do was set the idle speed, float levels and as it warmed up, the elect choke and idle mix screws. Then took it out for a test drive down the country road. Put my foot into it a bit and it took off well, but I lost a lil bit on the low end then hammered the throttle. Holy Shoot !!! The darn thing took off like this old tow truck never did before. I got up to scary speed real darn quick and now I'm pretty impressed with the old girl. Its got potential and now looking at a cam shaft. Thanks for all your help.

 

[G72Zed]

Glad to hear it's working out for you Lager. I got 2 of those 3310's to rebuild for customers, a 3310-1 down leg, and a 3310-2 straight leg, I like them both...they are great carbs.

 

[Lager]

Ok, Im back and ready to buy a cam shaft now. Just received my second stimulus check from the Govt and now I can stimulate Summitt Racing shipping dept. Funny thing happened since my last posts tho,, I took off the carb spacer because I missed the low end tire spinning torque and throttle response it robbed from Peter to pay Paul on the top end. Since I dont visit Paul on the top end much because this old truck gets a lil scary real quick now on these rural roads I decided on a cam that I think will be well rounded so to speak. Came up with the Comp Cam XE 268H and am planning on advancing the cam timing 4 degrees to throw a lil more down in the low rev area since thats where this truck lives most of the time anyways. Thinking this might help with the 8-1 pistons create a bit more compression pressure...Installing the ARP rocker arm studs to help prevent stud flex from the new valve springs. Was wondering about something tho, will the stock rocker arms allow .520 valve lift with out interference with the studs? Now, normally I would just throw on a set of roller rockers but the Grandkids here want to eat everyday so Im kinda on a budget. Thoughts?

 

[1980RS]

Ok, Im back and ready to buy a cam shaft now. Just received my second stimulus check from the Govt and now I can stimulate Summitt Racing shipping dept. Funny thing happened since my last posts tho,, I took off the carb spacer because I missed the low end tire spinning torque and throttle response it robbed from Peter to pay Paul on the top end. Since I dont visit Paul on the top end much because this old truck gets a lil scary real quick now on these rural roads I decided on a cam that I think will be well rounded so to speak. Came up with the Comp Cam XE 268H and am planning on advancing the cam timing 4 degrees to throw a lil more down in the low rev area since thats where this truck lives most of the time anyways. Thinking this might help with the 8-1 pistons create a bit more compression pressure...Installing the ARP rocker arm studs to help prevent stud flex from the new valve springs. Was wondering about something tho, will the stock rocker arms allow .520 valve lift with out interference with the studs? Now, normally I would just throw on a set of roller rockers but the Grandkids here want to eat everyday so Im kinda on a budget. Thoughts?

Don't advance the cam put it in straight up, Comp already builds in +4° in from the factory. That will put it in at +8° and will not pull well over 4500 believe me I know.

 

[Greg Mc]

Are you running stock rocker arms with self locking nuts or aftermarket rockers with poly locks. The ARP studs are great but are not recommended with self locking nuts......just a heads up. When you added your spacer, seemed like you lost some bottom end.....wonder if a jet change would have change your results.