Driveline angles vibration!!

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rebski

Veteran Member
Feb 1, 2006
331
Dallesport Wa.
The car. 1970 RS/SS
Gen I 350 kind of rowdy lots of fun. Trans TKO-600, rear 12 bolt 3:32 gear Posi.
Chassis is mostly stock with Energy Suspension mounts and bushings new springs front and rear, 5 leaf out back from General Spring. The leaf's are the heavy duty Camaro/firebird/nova rated at 147lb per inch.
Now to the issue, the car goes down the road smooth as glass in all gears only been up to 100mph.
When I get hard on the throttle (in the secondary's ) the gearshift rattles to the extreme. First through fourth.
Checked angles this is what I got with the car on a drive on lift. During the check I pulled the driveline and took the angles from the trans out put shaft and put a socket on the pinion nut and checked there and the yoke.
Trans 2.5* down it is as high as it will go and not hit the tunnel, driveline 0.6* down, Diff 0.6* up. these are corrected figures the rack was 0.3* down to the back of the car.
Center of trans output shaft is only 1/2 inch higher from the ground than the pinion shaft.
I have read a lot of the posts about this. I think that the leaf's are wrapping up and creating an intersect in the rear and possibly the front joints under hard throttle. I have read that you can get 3-5* of wrap from the diff.
What I am looking for is some input on how much shim to put between the housing and the leaf's from some of you who have been down this road. I am thinking a pair of these shims to point the diff down. 2*for1.4* or 2.5*for1.9* or 3.0*for2.4*.I know if I go to far I should start getting a deceleration vibration.
The more I point the diff down should net some more angle on the driveline itself which should be good.
Thanks for any help you can give.
 
Last edited:

xten

Veteran Member
Sep 24, 2014
5,774
Pittsburgh, Pa.
I think you're right about the wrap-up. If it's "smooth as glass" under moderate acceleration I would address the wrap-up before changing angles. You obviously know getting the trans up would be great, but not a viable option in your situation. Try clamping the leaves together to start and see if it improves. Sounds like some sort of traction bar would help a lot.
My street truck would do the same thing. I clamped the fronts of the springs and it's fine. You can see them in the pic below.
 

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rebski

Veteran Member
Feb 1, 2006
331
Dallesport Wa.
Thx xten for the reply
I am trying to stay away from bars the car is for fun but I need to solve this. With an 0.64 5th gear 4:10 gear could be in the future.
I have been told that clamping the springs can make the ride stiffer its already stiff.
Clamping is cheap and easy so worth the experiment.
Thx again for the reply
Rebski
 
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xten

Veteran Member
Sep 24, 2014
5,774
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Thx xten for the reply
I am trying to stay away from bars the car is for fun but I need to solve this. With an 0.64 5th gear 4:10 gear could be in the future.
I have been told that clamping the springs can make the ride stiffer its already stiff.
Clamping is cheap and easy so worth the experiment.
Thx again for the reply
Rebski
Clamping the fronts of the springs won't change the ride, as long as you don't clamp the rears. Just clamp the fronts and see if it at least improves.
 

Fbird

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 12, 2011
7,651
atlanta, ga
+2 on the "doesn't change ride"
also note....you do NOT need 1/2" bolts for these little clamps.....simple 5/16 bolts are plenty capable. Aluminum is nice and easy. Typically you make the bolt up against the edge of the leaf so when you add a washer ...its actually the BOLT clamping the leaf together and the aluminum "straps" are only holding the bolts in place. ;)
 

G72Zed

Veteran Member
Sep 8, 2015
6,687
Canada
If you have the perch pads still in place, you could try taking them out, it will help in removing the + pinion rotational deflection you are getting, and and easier to install some shims.
 

rebski

Veteran Member
Feb 1, 2006
331
Dallesport Wa.
Update. When I put the subframe connectors in I failed to take into account that the two inboard front spring pocket bolts ended up being now shimmed by 1/8 inch. That means the pocket aren’t square so I made a 3/16 shim for the outboard and added an 1/16 to the inboards. Then made a pair of spring clamps out of 3/16 X 1” bar stock. Took it for a drive today a lot better still have a rattle on the hit but then it goes away. Next step is 2* pinion shim going to try the Calvert billet ones. Will update when done.
 

rebski

Veteran Member
Feb 1, 2006
331
Dallesport Wa.
Been awhile here is the update.

Did alot went with the Chassisworks Leaf Spring locater kit and the 2* pinion shims and !/2" u-bolts no more 7/16" & T-bolts and the Chassisworks shackle kit, ended up with 0.035" gap on the Delrin uppers. Took their advice replaced the Energy Suspension bushings and went back to Moog stock leaf spring eye bushings on the front. Even replaced the Energy Suspension trans mount with a new Pioneer rubber one. Still have the rattly gearshift under hard throttle but it seems to be less angry and slowly goes away. The output shaft bushing in the trans is still tight to the yoke so thats not it. Have not had a chance to recheck angles. Chassisworks sells quality stuff and shipped super fast I recommend them Highly. The really good thing is the car just feels a bunch smoother to drive. It even shifts slicker booth upshifting and downshifting. So the poly stuff must have been binding up the chassis just like Chassisworks said it was. Next up rear gears 4:10's either going through the 12 bolt or build an 8.5 10 bolt and weld the tubes. Have been told the 12 bolt is worth bucks.
COV-E 06/1970.
 
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