ENGINE/ENGINE BAY PHOTO ARCHIVE

[Mitch_Z]

At Flint engine during hot-test they set the timing and chisel-staked the reference mark on the distributor base and intake.

 

[secondgenaddict]

70 Z28 Norwood 05C
1.Original radiator and tag with white paint highlighting the application code
2.Grooved original heater hoses.
3.Blue swash on the hood hinge
4.EB master cylinder
5.Assembly suffix code marked on drivers side of block (from the bottom of car) also visible is Freeze plug with no markings in the cup.
6. Assembly suffix on pass side of block.

 

[tom3]

At Flint engine during hot-test they set the timing and chisel-staked the reference mark on the distributor base and intake.

View attachment 185314

I've seen that mark on a distributor and wondered how/why that got there. Interesting.

 

[secondgenaddict]

FWI - To apply the white highlight to Rad tags I have used a hard foam roller, made by gluing a layer of 1/8" thick foam sheet to a small hand roller both from Michaels (roll dimensions - 3" wide - ~1" diam)
Here are some more of the engine compartment... and underhood. Let me know if you are interested - From this Car - I have a lot of paint detail shots, edges, oversprays, blackouts, anything which is out of the typical or I rarely see pictured. Also have literally 10 shots of just paint marks on the original brake rotors and as many of the spindles.
1. front hood lip showing how little paint was on the under lip...
2. Center of hood under side again lack of coverage
3. Rear lip under frame bulge behind the grille of hood is hand painted black with a foam brush or ?
4. better shot from pass side.
5. top of cowl where the daubed on windshield adhesive primer flowed onto the cowl top.
6. brake booster tab and background shows brown primer and black out.
7. another showing the light paint on the fender aprons -

This coverage pattern is due to the front clips being set up for painting on a buck with only 1-2" gap between the panels, not allowing the gun to be cocked and angled around the edges.

 

[Mitch_Z]

FWI - To apply the white highlight to Rad tags I have used a hard foam roller, made by gluing a layer of 1/8" thick foam sheet to a small hand roller both from Michaels (roll dimensions - 3" wide - ~1" diam)
Here are some more of the engine compartment... and underhood. Let me know if you are interested - From this Car - I have a lot of paint detail shots, edges, oversprays, blackouts, anything which is out of the typical or I rarely see pictured. Also have literally 10 shots of just paint marks on the original brake rotors and as many of the spindles.
1. front hood lip showing how little paint was on the under lip...
2. Center of hood under side again lack of coverage
3. Rear lip under frame bulge behind the grille of hood is hand painted black with a foam brush or ?
4. better shot from pass side.
5. top of cowl where the daubed on windshield adhesive primer flowed onto the cowl top.
6. brake booster tab and background shows brown primer and black out.
7. another showing the light paint on the fender aprons -

This coverage pattern is due to the front clips being set up for painting on a buck with only 1-2" gap between the panels, not allowing the gun to be cocked and angled around the edges.

Also the upper lip of the firewall did not get the blackout.

 

[secondgenaddict]

Also the upper lip of the firewall did not get the blackout.

View attachment 194900

I am not sure if the primered upper 1-1.5" is because the angle the black out was sprayed - if you sprayed at about a 60deg angle you could achieve the under lip with the brown primer -- and be pretty consistent from one car to the next.

Also I think that the rear of the hood area was blacked out because it may be visible from the front seats.
Does anyone else have any photos of the hood blackout application behind the hood grille area? Indicated by the RED ARROW.

 

[secondgenaddict]

Here are a bunch more... most are details and someone may see something in these that they need to replicate. I have a good number of shots of the floor pan overspray similar to these.

 

[70lt1z28]

I am not sure if the primered upper 1-1.5" is because the angle the black out was sprayed - if you sprayed at about a 60deg angle you could achieve the under lip with the brown primer -- and be pretty consistent from one car to the next.

Also I think that the rear of the hood area was blacked out because it may be visible from the front seats.
Does anyone else have any photos of the hood blackout application behind the hood grille area? Indicated by the RED ARROW.

Wasn’t the firewall blackout an operator process (non-robotic)? I know they tried for consistency, but it seems there would be variation from car to car and even on the same car. If it was over sprayed (no brown showing) I doubt they would have tried to fix it, would they? Still, it’s good to know what the average or target is. I always wonder what the training is for new operators on things like this. Were they graded on consistency and was leaving a level of primer showing a goal? Same thing for how far under the car it goes. Thanks for the photos.

 

[secondgenaddict]

Yes the black out was hand applied, the front clips were hand painted The bodies were painted with guns on rails which moved back and forth, there is a Fisher Body video on Youtube which shows the guns moving back and forth and the body going under the guns...
More of the firewall blackout - some from the bottom showing the trans tunnel. I believe after looking at these photos the black out was sprayed from about the engine area towards the firewall. The TOP of the cowl which has a lip facing forward - the lip facing forward has no paint.

 

[70COPO]

Wasn’t the firewall blackout an operator process (non-robotic)? I know they tried for consistency, but it seems there would be variation from car to car and even on the same car. If it was over sprayed (no brown showing) I doubt they would have tried to fix it, would they? Still, it’s good to know what the average or target is. I always wonder what the training is for new operators on things like this. Were they graded on consistency and was leaving a level of primer showing a goal? Same thing for how far under the car it goes. Thanks for the photos.

You are correct. While looking at original cars is helpful the truth is that normal production cars had human consistency variations each and every time. These variations were even more pronounced when one of the assigned workers went on a break and an ARO came in to do the job as a replacement.

Shy paint on the one side of the extreme to runs. All were common on these cars. Front clips where the paint applied by Fisher to the body failed to match the paint applied by Chevrolet especially pronounced in the metallic colors.

Van Nuys similar but different at the same time.

Norwood used Fixed pedestal/Body drop process and Fisher and Chevrolet as separate divisions.
Van Nuys used GMAD as the consolidated assembly division and used TOWVEYOR method as the assembly process.

If possible always restore your car as you found it. If you do that you are never wrong.