Max HP Handling Car Setup

[bradthebold]

Exactly, that's what I'm trying to avoid, a car that's irritating to drive because you can't go WOT under 60mph.

It's hard to decide because of so many varying opinions too. Some saying 450rwhp would be worthless on anything short of M/T radials, and others saying 600+whp with a good suspension is fine.

I don't want to waste money on an overkill setup that can't put the power down if a 383 would be just as fast.

 

[73 Z]

Plenty of cars can't go WOT at 60mph. Just watch an old episode of BBC top gear. You need to find the happy medium of your auto goals. You either want to be the fastest in a short distance, or have an overall fast ride.

 

[Lowend]

Cars with that much power is going to be a handful on the street no matter what you do. AWD is helpful, but it's not a miracle worker, take it from a guy who drives a very fast Subaru.

You tire compound and overall setup is much more important than gross tire size. Going from a 315 to a the 335 that a mini tub buys you, really won't buy you much by itself.

My suggestion is to take a look at what the SCCA guys running the CAM classes are using for tires. The Tirerack "Extreme Summer" tires are a good place to start
These include the

• BFG Rival S
• Bridgestone RE71R
• Direzza ZII Star Spec

In general - if it's over a 200 or under 140 Tread wear, forget it. The over 200's aren't sticky enough, under 140 wear out pretty much instantly and become outright dangerous in the wet.

The Customworks suspension is a good one - and there are other options.
I've always really liked the Global West Cat V leafsprings.
The real key is going to be tying up the chassis and making sure all of the movement gets sent through the suspension rather than bending metal.

Wheel Alignment and Shock tuning tire pressures are probably the most important overlooked factors. These are goddamned annoying because there's really no way to get this right without adjusting, testing, knowing what you're looking for and adjusting again. I know guys who take a year of tweaking to get this right.
AND, you'll be shocked at the difference that it makes at the limit.

 

[bradthebold]

I'm sure plenty of cars can't go WOT under 60mph, but if you can't, then what's the point of more power on the street? If you're both accelerating at the same rate and one car is WOT and one is at 25%, they're equally useful.

AWD is pretty miraculous though. I have an 'only' 400whp audi and it has absolutely zero traction issues in the dry (on 225 all seasons) and minimal in the wet. A standing launch is the rain is pretty fast. Even my mostly stock 79 just sits there spinning if you punch it in the rain. <$10k more into it for 600-700awhp and I don't think any rwd car could possibly keep up with it on unprepped streets at any legal speed, though I may be wrong.

That said, I still love my Camaro and want it to be as fast as it can without being a waste or handling like a sailboat.

For tires at ~500whp, I had kind of given up on street radials as it looks like even stiffer walled drag radials hook much better than the best street radials. And people seem to claim N555Rs handle well, for example, but how well compared to a good street radial?

Subframe connectors and solid body bushings for sure, and probably G-braces if they'll fit.

The suspension setup is the part that seems to need a balance, though it seems like more of a compromise either way. Either soften up the front to let it come up and transfer more weight to the rear for traction, or firm it up for better handling. Doesn't seem like there's a good balance without making both aspects kind of suck.

 

[73 Z]

Only so much can be done with a 37yr o'l rwd domestic car. sounds like you need a mid eng. 200+K auto.

 

[bradthebold]

A tuned GT-R for less than half that that can do 10 seconds on the street would be nice, yeah. Or the new stage 3 Audi S3 will do 10's on the street for less. Or a 996/997 turbo for even less. There are lots of good choices I'm considering besides this, but I'm still going to build/restore my camaro as well. And basically the same traction limitations apply to new high power RWD cars too, like the Hellcat mentioned.

Getting the most out of this as an all purpose street car as I can is what I want and figuring out where that limit is.

 

[73 Z]

Cool I'm in (support wise) all else is above my budget.
Please post progress pics and info for others on this site.

 

[APEowner]

Lowend pretty much nailed it. Tires are the biggest factor.

I do think you're smart to question both the need and usefulness of a 600hp street car. Racing on the street is just stupid and you can do a showoffy burnout with a lot less power so apart from bragging rights what's the point? Having said (or typed) that, my Camaro is setup for road racing, puts out 600HP at the flywheel and gets driven on the street.

 

[Lowend]

If you expect a car to turn, do not run drag radials. It's not their job to counteract side force.

You can absolutely does this on 200TW tire
This car has over 1000HP and weighs less than 2500 lbs and runs on 315, BFG Rival S or Falkens.
Other than IRS (which is not a small factor) it's starting chassis is no better than yours.
[youtube]5_9FteQ3nuA[/youtube]
Mind you - the driver is one of the best in the country, but compared to what you're trying to do with a fun street car... this is like going to the moon.

Is it easier to go fast in a newer car... without a doubt. But if you were really only interested in going fast you'd probably own a Ducati or a Shift-cart

 

[Maxacceleration]

Sounds like you have the money to do want you want.
I think a road race themed car with big brakes would be the all around most pleasing ride.
Accelerate hard and be able to handle the curves.
10 seconds in the 1/4 and not much turning ability? Not for me (unless I want a dedicated drag car).
Check the hp of what the current rwd road racers are running.
Drift out of corners...

How about this direction?...