Maybe someone can explain this...
- Thread starter ULTM8Z
- Start date
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ULTM8Z
Veteran Member
I don't know... even after a week? When I was under there last I didn't even see any oil on the flex plate.
2ndGenCrazy
Veteran Member
Aside from the leak and regarding the oil consumption issue.
I might recommend a few checks.
What is the manifold vacuum at idle?
Stock PCV being used?
Compression and leak down test on each cylinder engine warm.
Pull all 8 plugs and see if they all look the same.
I might recommend a few checks.
What is the manifold vacuum at idle?
Stock PCV being used?
Compression and leak down test on each cylinder engine warm.
Pull all 8 plugs and see if they all look the same.
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DarthVega
Member
I bought a uv leak detect kit most fluids glow now under uv with the yellow lenses on- i had a leak where the anti oil slosh baffle was spot welded to the side of the oil pan- never seemed to leak when engine not running always thought it was a rear main just couldn’t figure it out until I cleaned everything started it up raised the rpms and got underneath it with the light and the glasses and then I finally saw the tiny web like trickle coming right out the side of the pan and blowing back towards the torque converter cover even with just the wind from the cooling fan -it was awesome/ good luck bro a little uv light can be an awesome tool
Any update on the PCV question above? Definitely a good suspect.
ULTM8Z
Veteran Member
So the leak had started up again since I last posted, but just now in the last couple of weeks appears to have finally ended for good (knock on wood).
I resisted the urge to go change the oil pan gasket and I'm glad I waited. I simply put an aluminum pan under the engine to capture the leak, hoping it would finally dissipate.
But yeah it's been the strangest thing... like I said in my original post... the leak results in what looks like new oil in the aluminum pan. Yet when you pull the dipstick, it has the typical brown colored oil you'd expect from used oil. It's almost like some component of the oil has been permeating through the gasket.
It's been 2 weeks since there's been any oil in the pan (I clean it out every so often to monitor the leak rate). So between January and now, I guess the last vestiges of the Kirkland oil has been drained from the system??
Any rate, if I don't get any more leaking after another week or so, I'll probably be able to stop using that pan. I got some degreaser and cleaned off the underside of the car too just to get a fresh look at it. Fingers crossed!
I resisted the urge to go change the oil pan gasket and I'm glad I waited. I simply put an aluminum pan under the engine to capture the leak, hoping it would finally dissipate.
But yeah it's been the strangest thing... like I said in my original post... the leak results in what looks like new oil in the aluminum pan. Yet when you pull the dipstick, it has the typical brown colored oil you'd expect from used oil. It's almost like some component of the oil has been permeating through the gasket.
It's been 2 weeks since there's been any oil in the pan (I clean it out every so often to monitor the leak rate). So between January and now, I guess the last vestiges of the Kirkland oil has been drained from the system??
Any rate, if I don't get any more leaking after another week or so, I'll probably be able to stop using that pan. I got some degreaser and cleaned off the underside of the car too just to get a fresh look at it. Fingers crossed!
Just seeing this thread now, and also glad you didn't throw a new pan gasket at it. (I would have suggested perhaps just snugging up those bolts first).
A couple of thoughts for you on this.
As you may already know, synthetic oil is a molecularly thinner oil, and some believe that it causes leaks when they weren't there before. It simply can get into places that conventional oil can't. Like said, perhaps that little bit of chemical difference is what you are experiencing. Thankfully, you only put in a little bit, and not an entire oil changes worth.
If your car sits a few weeks between drives, perhaps the seal in the engine isn't of superior quality and drying out too quickly, slightly shrinking, potentially causing a leak at some point. (I doubt this, but, just a thought). Perhaps both were at play?
A couple of thoughts for you on this.
As you may already know, synthetic oil is a molecularly thinner oil, and some believe that it causes leaks when they weren't there before. It simply can get into places that conventional oil can't. Like said, perhaps that little bit of chemical difference is what you are experiencing. Thankfully, you only put in a little bit, and not an entire oil changes worth.
If your car sits a few weeks between drives, perhaps the seal in the engine isn't of superior quality and drying out too quickly, slightly shrinking, potentially causing a leak at some point. (I doubt this, but, just a thought). Perhaps both were at play?
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I know you said no oil leaks around rear china wall and pressure port. I checked that area chasing a leak similar to yours, couldn't find anything. Wound up being a small crack in the O-ring on the electric oil psi sender. Unfortunately, I didn't find it until it cracked all the way when we were on a trip.
I'm not a believer in two oils causing seals to leak.
I'm not a believer in two oils causing seals to leak.
The oil definitely didn't cause the leak, in fact I'm 95% certain that Kirkland oil is made by Mobil 1
Have you thrown a tracer into the oil? probably the easiest way to see where it's coming from
Have you thrown a tracer into the oil? probably the easiest way to see where it's coming from
