My Project

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Plant Engineer

Veteran Member
May 17, 2017
413
Fort Mill SC
Bonus time. Heading to Mexico for a few weeks and gots me some big meats for the mullet machine.

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Plant Engineer

Veteran Member
May 17, 2017
413
Fort Mill SC
Left side done. Right to go.

I pulled the 540 to change cams and intake manifold and to weld bungs into the pan for an oil drain line from the heads. Should be back in this week.

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dave@ztech

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 27, 2016
4,754
NY
Looking at the race video again, I have a question regarding the tail lights,why are the brake lights dimmerer then the driving tail lights ? are you using LED in them in both positions , something seems off I just can't seem to understand why , not uncommon for me however, HAA HA
 

Plant Engineer

Veteran Member
May 17, 2017
413
Fort Mill SC
The outer running lights are brighter when the headlamps are on. Both light sets on at the same time on the outers. Inners are turn signals and brake lights. When the turn signals are on they lamp is equally as bright as the outside lamps. No backup lights.
 

Plant Engineer

Veteran Member
May 17, 2017
413
Fort Mill SC
So heres what happened. I was racing a few weeks ago and figured I'd burn the old Nitto 555R's off since I was changing wheels and tires anyway. Managed a 10.9 with the street tires and felt pretty good about myself so I turned the nitrous on, which I hadn't done before on this car. Pulled up to the line and they were just shuffling me through and I wasn't even racing against anyone and I didn't even get to do a burnout. I still wanted to see what it would do. Last amber I stomped on it and was sliding all the way until at least the half track point. Instead of letting off the gas ...or remembering to shift into 3rd...I drove through it at 7000 RPM in 2nd and the car slowed on its own. Ran a low 12 something and it barely ran so I figured I've done some damage and shut it down in the pits . Towed it home and checked compression spot on at 150 lbs all the way around. Checked timing and it was off by about 35 degrees so smarty me figures the distributor slipped. I re-timed the engine and took it for a drive. Went out on a secluded road and opened it up . At 6000 RPM the rest of the bolts holding the cam sprocket sheered off , the cam stopped and the still reciprocating pistons wiped out 9 valves. Yeah the valves floating and weird harmonic poo at 7 grand back at the track had sheered off the cam drive pin and super mechanic me got it running without actually figuring out what had happened. No damage whatsoever to the heads which I found surprising and the pistons had a few dings but nothing bad. Bent valves though. So 9 valves later, a new solid flat tappet cam and a minor rebuild , some oiling upgrades ( note the oil return lines from the back of the heads to the oil pan ) , a new shorter intake ( stip dominator ) to better clear the hood and some nitrous upgrades and its ready to go back in tomorrow. Probably pushing the low side of 700 HP now but mileage and driveability should be better for in town driving and race HP will be about the same considering the spray at 175 HP. Big thing is I was somewhat concerned about long term valve train stability with the solid roller as I'm driving it more that I thought I would be which is a good thing. Big block have heavy valvetrains and although some people swear by hydraulic rollers I don't trust hydraulics over 6500 RPM roller or not.
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dave@ztech

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Mar 27, 2016
4,754
NY
That sucks, did the cam sprocket bolts just come loose ? and then snap then they had all the extra play? Are you using a chain or a belt ?
 
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