Removing bellhousing dowel pins from block

[Fbird]

Had to remove the original dowels to use some offset pins to get my scattershield dialed in. Anyone who has had to do this knowns it's a pain in the butt to get the dowels OUT. By using a stud tool it makes it pretty simple. While rotating the dowel you can use a prybar behind the stud tool and dowels come out pretty easy.

 

[Twisted_Metal]

If you have a stud tool, that's a great idea!

My first attempt would have been to use a vise grips and a pry bar.
Not nearly as elegant of a solution but I think it would work.

I have a vise grips which has been converted to a slide hammer too.

 

[Fbird]

i have a slidehammer -convert-vise grip...was going to do that but could NOT find it....this is what I had...and worked rather well.

 

[1971Dan]

Had to remove the original dowels to use some offset pins to get my scattershield dialed in. Anyone who has had to do this knowns it's a pain in the butt to get the dowels OUT. By using a stud tool it makes it pretty simple. While rotating the dowel you can use a prybar behind the stud tool and dowels come out pretty easy.

View attachment 142157

Thanks for posting this! I'm about to measure bell housing alignment for the TKX install and I'm sure I'll need to pull the old dowels out.

 

[biker]

Can the dowels not be tapped out from the other side of the casting?

 

[1971Dan]

That's a good question - probably - I'll have to look tonight when I get home.

 

[biker]

That's a good question - probably - I'll have to look tonight when I get home.

I'm quite sure that's how I did mine a couple years ago.

 

[1971Dan]

I'm quite sure that's how I did mine a couple years ago.

Good memory - the block casting is open / accessible on the other side.

My headers/starter and headers/clutch linkage make it a little tougher to get in there, but it can definitely be done.

I still bought that stud removal tool anyway, just to have ha ha.

 

[biker]

Good memory - the block casting is open / accessible on the other side.

My headers/starter and headers/clutch linkage make it a little tougher to get in there, but it can definitely be done.

I still bought that stud removal tool anyway, just to have ha ha.

Yes! Stud remover really is a great thing to have anyways. My engine was out anyways, so the back of the dowel was easy to see and get at

 

[Twisted_Metal]

If they can be driven out from the other side...
Why can't you drive them all the way through from the bell housing side?

They aren't tapered... Are they?