Does anyone make the sheet metal section that forms the mounts for the leaf spring front perch? Mine is rusted on the passenger side, I think they make the 67-69 but not the 70-81s but I may have missed it. I can fab it but it's making me tired just thinking about forming all the bends and bumps. It also includes the tie in to the subframe, sure hope I can just buy one....
Repro floor pan section for front of the leaf spring perch?
- Thread starter stu
- Start date
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buildinmy73
Veteran Member
Ivanovich07
New Member
http://www.ss396.com/part/RSB-70FRR.html
I looked into replacing mine, but I ended up just doing repair work on it.
I looked into replacing mine, but I ended up just doing repair work on it.
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brooksman9
Veteran Member
Guy in the progress section has some pics of one he just installed. He got it from Camaro Central.
zooms80z
Veteran Member
phat80
Veteran Member
frame rail
How is you frame rail in that area? What started out as a little rust bubble on the floor has turned into having to replace a rotted pass side (forward of axle) frame rail.
I'd be interested to see some pix if can post 'em.
good luck
How is you frame rail in that area? What started out as a little rust bubble on the floor has turned into having to replace a rotted pass side (forward of axle) frame rail.
I'd be interested to see some pix if can post 'em.
good luck
phat80 said:
The new torque box arrived last Monday, it's exactly what I needed. I will probably section it to fit on top of the existing metal, I'm not sure I want to do a full removal and tie in. My structure is solid in most places, but there a few areas that are rusted through and need patching. The front toe boards were done years ago, along with the rear quarters and now needs just the passenger torque box and rocker skins. Once the car left Indiana and the salt the rot halted, other than a few areas where the water collects.
Frame rails are OK except for one section on both sides aft of where the torque boxes tie in. I am making 18 gauge repair sections to overlay those. Will post pics when I get this done, it's coming up soon since I busted a few spots welds changing the subframe bushings. The car's weight was on just a few points and it wracked the weak metal in that area.
Torque box is in!
I replaced the passenger torque box, turned out great but tricky. Here's highlights in case anyone is interested:
1. The old one rusted through around the original attachment points, so it wasn't hard to get it out. You will likely need oxyacetylene to trim all the misc spot welds and cut all the little hanging parts out. I don't see how you could do it without that, maybe a grinder but it would take a while and there's not much room if the car isn't on a rotisserie.
2. You have to get all the old box out, any pieces left in the gaps between the subframe will make it difficult if not impossible to fit the new one in. It's especially important where the two meet and slip together. I was tripping thinking I could install it over the old one, no way.
3. The new box slides in from the front, but you have to bend the outboard edge (that welds to the rocker panel area) in a bit to make it fit while hammering it in place. You then bend it back to fit later.
4. I used a 1/2" bolt in the seat belt boss as a ground clamp point when I MIGed it in, this worked great.
It's not an easy job but not horribly difficult either, I did it with the car on jack stands and intact and it took about a full day. I still have to fab repair patches for the two floor pan sections that were rusted through, but that's a snap comparatively speaking. No pics, I was too busy trying to finish but will shoot a couple over the holiday and post. My frame rails are in decent shape, there's two holes in one small spot on the driver side but they were intact otherwise and readily weldable. Did I mention I hate welding rusty metal? That really blows, seems like there's little pockets right where I need to run a bead. Wish I had the time and space to do a 100% frame off redo but that's not in the cards. Not worth it either, but it would be cool.
I replaced the passenger torque box, turned out great but tricky. Here's highlights in case anyone is interested:
1. The old one rusted through around the original attachment points, so it wasn't hard to get it out. You will likely need oxyacetylene to trim all the misc spot welds and cut all the little hanging parts out. I don't see how you could do it without that, maybe a grinder but it would take a while and there's not much room if the car isn't on a rotisserie.
2. You have to get all the old box out, any pieces left in the gaps between the subframe will make it difficult if not impossible to fit the new one in. It's especially important where the two meet and slip together. I was tripping thinking I could install it over the old one, no way.
3. The new box slides in from the front, but you have to bend the outboard edge (that welds to the rocker panel area) in a bit to make it fit while hammering it in place. You then bend it back to fit later.
4. I used a 1/2" bolt in the seat belt boss as a ground clamp point when I MIGed it in, this worked great.
It's not an easy job but not horribly difficult either, I did it with the car on jack stands and intact and it took about a full day. I still have to fab repair patches for the two floor pan sections that were rusted through, but that's a snap comparatively speaking. No pics, I was too busy trying to finish but will shoot a couple over the holiday and post. My frame rails are in decent shape, there's two holes in one small spot on the driver side but they were intact otherwise and readily weldable. Did I mention I hate welding rusty metal? That really blows, seems like there's little pockets right where I need to run a bead. Wish I had the time and space to do a 100% frame off redo but that's not in the cards. Not worth it either, but it would be cool.
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