Roller Cam recomendations for Son's S10

[Cardinal]

Our youngest son wants to build a "real" motor for his 83 S10. It now has a bone stock 350 small block in it, 2800 stall converter on a TH350 and 3.73:1 rear gears.

I have a TH400 with a B&M 3000 stall converter to go in place of the TH350.

He wants to narrow a 8.5" ten bolt to put in place of the 7.5" ten bolt, put Moser axles with c-clip elimators, and probably 3.73:1 gears (again).

As for an engine, we will most likely build a 355 (.030" over 350) as we have a good forged crank and a set of Speed Pro hyper pistons and moly rings for it. We'll buy a good set of rods that'll complete the rotating assembly.

I want to buy him a good set of heads (at Christmas). I have a couple of different Holley carburetors for it (780 cfm dual feed double pumpers) but not intake yet that I think will work well with his goals so I need input on a good intake for it. I've looked at the Edelbrock head and intake kits but I'm not sure about them. I'm leaning more towards Canfield iron heads and a Edlebrock air gap intake.

He wants to run a roller cam. I'm leaning towards a hydraulic roller cam but haven't decided on which brand. So, given the above information, what cam brand and which of their hydraulic roller cams can you suggest?

Any and all ideas will be appreciated.

 

[sooner]

I like this one alot for that motor with a 2800+ converter

http://competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CCA12-432-8

This one would probably be fine with a 3000, but might want just a shade more depending on compression.

http://competitionproducts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=110265


I really like the ta 282/290r in a solid roller, if you want to go that route.

http://reedcams.com/cam_SBC_solid_roller.htm

 

[RacerRick]

I would save the solid roller cam money, instead buy a solid flat tappet cam with good lifters, and put the money into a stouter bottom end instead.

A scat 9000 3.75" crank for 383 ci, I beam rods, and forged pistons would be the way I would go. If you get a 6" rod crank, they will internally balance, and you will have a real light bobweight. The upgrade cost will probably be the same as the price difference between the roller and FT cam.

Then when you buy the heads, go for the Canfields, or if you don't want to spend that much, the Dart Iron Eagle 215's.

Leave the TH350 and 2800 stall converter - it will be faster in the quarter and if built right will take all the abuse you can throw at it. The longer stroke will make plenty of bottom end torque to get the car off the line.

Instead of cutting down a 8.5" rear wth aftermarket axles, C-clip elimiators, etc. I would step up right to the a ford 9". It will be cheaper to put new axles, in a cut down 9", and the gear you want with a spool, than to do the same to an 8.5" GM rear because you won't need the c-clip eliminators, and 9" parts are cheaper.

 

[Lowend]

I'll have to disagree with Rick - flat-tappet cam with today's oil formulations is a problem waiting to happen.
If it were me - I would just buy this guy
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance/809/12498772K/10002/-1
You aren't gonna be able to build a better engine for this application for less money.

 

[hhott71]

What are your ET goals?
A narrowed 9" would be cheaper than a narrowed 10 bolt.
The 350TH is more than enough.
A Hyd Roller cam, GM Hot cams can be had in the "retro" cam core for the pre 87 blocks, the lifters etc get expensive.
BEST suggestion is a 96-99 Vortec 5.7L (350) motor and rebuild it with a hot cam (.520" lift 220º dur, in that area, cam), better heads (Canfields) sell the vortec heads, get a RPM intake and try out your carbs. The 780 vac secondary will work so will a 650-750 Double Pumper.

I missed a 97 vortec 350 complete for $175 by 5 minutes.

 

[Cardinal]

We have the 8.5" 10 bolt and a pair of Moser axles. All it would need is a Eaton posi unit and gears. I made a fixture to narrow rear end housings so we can do it ourselves. Most likely, we'll use the Ford style housing ends so we won't need the c-clip eliminators.

We have all the parts for a short block BUT not heads, cam kit, or intake. He and I both don't have the $$$ to build it all at once. The plan is to slowly but surely buy parts over the next two years (he's in college so we has zero spare money for this project). Basically, we're "wish booking".

The TH350 is tired (normal driving is OK but it doesn't accelerate as good as it should in 1st). I have a good TH400 for it.

His goal is to have a streetable truck that he can drive in nice weather but be able to go to the drags and run in the 11 to 12second zone. We have talked about adding a 100 or so HP NOS system to it too but that's another story! LOL!