SBC Procharger D-1SC Build Plans

[76z28]

Dude - I hate to tell you, but you ain't getting out of this build for less than $10K just for the engine/blower.
Probably another $2500 for a transmission that will survive those power levels
$1000 for a rearend assembly.
And another couple thousand dollars to make the chassis not eat itself....

A 10 bolt will live, the chasis will need subframe connectors(or something to stiffen it I have a roll bar)

Transmission will be around 1500(if you can at least do some work yourself)

I guess it pays to do your own stuff..

 

[bradthebold]

My goals are either 500 crank hp with the 383, or step up to 500+whp with another setup. I'm trying to see if it's going to be worth it to step up.

I know this won't be cheap, and I never said anything like I have $5k and want a procharger. I expect a 383 w/driveline parts to be ~$10k. For a procharger, probably another $6-8k for a forged crank, the procharger, fueling, better trans, and rear end. Same ~$3k full suspension regardless of setup (unless I need more front spring). An AFR headed roller 496 would be more than $10k on it's own I'm guessing. I'll have to get a quote. A zz502 doesn't much more power than a 383, so that's not worth it. If I went big block, I would do it right, which would require the same trans and rear end as the procharger basically. It would take a solid big block to compete with a procharger though. With an intercooler, not even close.

As for the hood, an RPM air gap will clear. If I had to run a victor jr w/the procharger, depending on the hat height, then it may be in the same boat as the big block. Either compromise and run a low rise for the big block or run an RPM intake with the small block.

But yeah, I agree, for the same power a big block would be cheaper. I really only would want to go big block for more power though, not to trying to just match small block power.

With an aluminium radiator and lighter suspension parts, an aluminium headed big block would probably weigh less than the stock setup up front now. So a big block is definitely an option now I wasn't considering before. It would suck more gas cruising around vs a procharger setup out of boost though.

I'm probably leaning towards a big block or procharger setup. A big block would be easier to setup and probably a few thousand cheaper, but that isn't a big deal.

Searching, a Victor Jr will fit under the hood. So I would have to try to figure out the height of a drop base air cleaner vs a normal or low profile procharger hat. Looks like it would be close. Maybe the same situation having to cut under the scoop. Looks like the only big block intakes that will fit are a torker (which seems like it sucks) or a factory low rise. Or if I cut the hood, an RPM air gap would fit.

 

[muscl car]

If I could ever fund this build I would really like to have a Dart Little M block , AFR 245 cylinder heads and a F1 Procharger

 

[bradthebold]

Yes, that would be awesome. The way I look at it, this whole build will cost less than a relatively low priced new car and I'll want to drive it more than any new car. And it's a graduation present to myself. This was my first car that I've had for 15 years.

 

[bradthebold]

The short victor jr is actually ~1/4" shorter than the performer RPM, so that's better than I thought. I cannot find someone running a d1sc under a stock hood though, just cowls. I don't know if the hat will clear or if the procharger itself will clear. If it will clear, I would imagine, at worst, the low hat would fit. That might not be ideal, but it would already make more than enough power.

Big block I'd have to run a crappy intake or cut the hood, and deal with more heat, more weight, and worse mpg, but for less money and still a lot of power.

 

[F-Bodypilot]

If I could ever fund this build I would really like to have a Dart Little M block , AFR 245 cylinder heads and a F1 Procharger

I don't think I would limit myself to 383 cubes if I was going with an aftermarket block,... just sayin'

 

[81Z28355]

Ill throw in my .02, I have built power both the NA route and the forced route in a street car. My goals are always to first build the lightest car I can, so I have never built a BBC. I have also always used fuel injection, nothing like being able to tune a car with a lap top and do dyno tuning with built in wide bands on a back road. My LS3 based 416 is NA and made 530 rwhp through a T-56, 4:11 gears. The car is 3300 lbs and traps 128mph. It has AC and all the comforts you would expect. The car has an absolutely nasty idle, surges in parking lots and is a chore to drive in a cruise. The throttle response is insane and the sound of a NA engine at 7500rpm is intoxicating.

My last build is using a stock cubic in LS3 with a Kenne Bell twin screw super charger. The car drives, idles like stock, I would let my grandmother drive it to the grocery store. When its in the boost the car is insane, to the tune of 730 rwhp. The blower, heat exchanger and associated parts added up to just under 100 lbs of added weight. Other than a slight whine at idle, nobody would know the car was modded. This car is heavier at 3800lbs and traps 135 mph.

The NA engine set me back north or 15k, it has all the best internals and cnc porting. Its built to handle 300hp of N2.

The blower engine has similar parts, no porting, but another 6k for the blower and supporting parts. I have around 20k in that one.


Neither of these engine are in a second gen though. At this time my Z28 just has a mild 350 that runs 12.9 @ 103. After having these max effort street cars that are a chore to make hook up on the street I plan to do a Mild LS3 with just enough cam lope to make it sound good. 450 rwhp should be plenty to make it a street animal and pull some 11's on the track in street trim. Should drop a nice 100lbs off the front of the car compared to the all cast SBC that sits in there now.

All of my cars have built rears, suspension, drive shafts, twin disk clutches, fuel systems and cooling to support the power. I run on drag radials at all times.

 

[muscl car]

I don't think I would limit myself to 383 cubes if I was going with an aftermarket block,... just sayin'

Whoops !!! , meant to say a nice big cubed sbc like a 468 sbc would be nice with a F1 Procharger !!!

 

[bradthebold]

So I've been reading a lot and it seems like 400-500whp is probably the ideal power for the street. Guys on LS1tech are ridiculous about what they think is streetable, so it's hard to read and guess what power isn't too much. It seems like everyone is 600-800whp and they think that's good, even though you can't go WOT at any legal speed on drag radials.

I think I'll most likely run 285/17 Goodyear GS-D3s. Drag radials just seem too dangerous in the rain, despite 95% of LS1tech running them and saying they're fine in the rain if you know how to drive.

Based on that I think I'll go with a 383, 406/421, or a 496. The 383 should make low 400whp, the 496 should make low 500whp, and a 400 based block should make mid 400whp. I looked more into an LS2/3 too. With LS3 heads/cam it's mid-upper 400s, and with CNC heads, low 500s. The D-1SC could make a lot more power, but it seems like it's too much for street tires to contain.

Which do you think would be the most fun to drive? Under 45mph, I would rather a downshift to first not blow the tires away. I don't want to get sideways if I got WOT trying to pass someone. And I don't want to pay for more power if I can't put it down or ever go WOT, especially on street tires that won't get me killed in the rain.

I'm kind of leaning towards a Dart SHP 421 with a 3.875 stroke. I'm still waiting on quotes, but that would be the easiest to put in compared to a bbc or especially an LS engine. It would make a bit more power than a 383, weigh less than the bbc, cost less than the LS or new parts bbc. And the LS would probably cost a lot more to make the same power, and I won't be driving it in the winter and the cost of that plus a 4l80e would never be made up by the increased mpg or FI advantages.

Edit: Well, if I'm going to be in $8-10k for a small block, maybe I will go LS. Starting with a junkyard small block matched to my TH350 would probably be reasonably priced. I'll have to see.

 

[Maine1]

I just went through what your debating... I bought the D1sc then started getting ready to purchase the necessary SBC stuff and after much searching and number crunching I ended up buy a Merlin block and building a NA 540 and the total was less and the HP&TQ was more then going the small block route, at least to the level I was prepared to go and I ended up with just over 700 hp&tq. Then of course I had to do a rear end and proper clutching which set me back another 3k+ to do it right. Just my .02 of experience