Temp help

[knf118]

Are you using a fan clutch or flex fan?

Fan clutch. After taking mine out I found out that there was no bimetallic coil on it. So I installed the one that my buddy gave me. Then the temp went up to 210 cruising....bad clutch . So I put mine back on and back down to 190 it went...Better there than blowing a hose. I also noticed that exhaust ports 2,6 & 8 are getting hot as well by the discoloring of my new ceramic coated header on just those tubes. Put my meter with a temp sensor to it and it read 693* on port 2, around 630* on 6 & 8, mean while 4 was almost 600* and no discoloring

So the next steps I plan on taking are compression test all cylinders, re-torque the heads (already checked #1 in the sequence on the hot side and it's not even clicking at 65 lbs yet), re-torque the intake and check for leaks with good ol' WD40, redo valve lashing on the hot side and get an electric fan. If anyone can think of anything else please let me now.

 

[knf118]

Compression test results came out pretty good, between 155 and 160 psi on all cylinders. Re-torqued the head bolts and got about 3/4 to a full turn on all bolts....

 

[knf118]

Well, out of time this weekend. Got everything back together and ready to start setting valve lash and check for any intake leak. Got a friend coming over on Wednesday to help. I'll post results then. In the mean time if anyone has any other suggestions I would love to here them. Thanks, Nick.

 

[knf118]

Think I might of found the problem. While redoing the valve lash I got to cylinders 6 and 8 intake, backed the nut almost all the way off and still no clack. Thought it might of been a stuck lifter, so I took the rocker off and as I pulled the rod out...clankitty clank. cap came off the lifter. So I pulled the top end of the motor apart and found that both 6 and 8 lifters retaining rings we're missing. Ordered some new ones and should have them tomorrow. Still not sure what is causing number 2 header tube to get hotter than normal. They clacked at the right time on both intake and exhaust. Does anyone have ideas?

 

[bfendick]

I have a 355 with a single blade electric fan, 195 thermostat and fresh 3 core rad and run consistently 205 to 210. It doesn't overheat (no boiling over) and runs great so I am not worrying about anything, been like that the last 4 years. Who put your engine together as it seems odd that the head bolts aren't torqued right and the issue with the lifters makes me think bad installation.

 

[tom_79]

Take it you found all the parts if the lifters that came apart

 

[knf118]

I did find most of the parts, didn't find the retainer clips for the cap of the lifters, should be in the oil pan now. I would say that the person that built this motor did a cheap cut corner job. Not the motor I'm going to stay with though.

Fired it up with the new Lunati lifters and now both headers are getting to over 730 degrees which tells me that I may have tightened the valve lash a bit to much. Little tricky for a beginner getting this set right but I'll get her there. After reading the response from some of you guy's I feel better about the temp being what it was before. Didn't know that 190 to 210 temp reading off the head was a good temp to run at. Got the 180 Tstat with a aluminum 1" 2 core radiator with dual electric fans now to aid in keeping it cooler when in traffic. Not going to get back to it for a couple weeks now (gotta make up for the funds I just spent and work some OT), but when I do I'll touch base with the outcome. Thanks for your input all!

 

[tom_79]

I wouldnt run it till I found the clips, that's a large piece of metal that could be causing unknown damage, if its not in the oil filter, pan or stuck in oil bypass on the filter (I found half one there) its making it's way round somewhere which is not what you want.
Been there done that ruined a crank!