The Germ

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Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Depends on how much power you are putting to it. The 10 bolts are supposed to be pretty tough. I have mine in the car with the c clips and I am T 460ftlbs/tq. I put some bigger moser axles and a new posi unit in though.

At this point I would drain and fill you old one, clean up the case and put it right back in. If you blow it up get the 9inch.

That all said, what gears are in it?
Don't have a clue haven't ran the tag yet. Im pretty sure it will handle strait line stuff but I'm worried about it under load chasing cones.
 

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Vinegar is great for steel and copper,but I would not soak the switches in it. The internals may be bad anyway. If the switch is looking bad maybe just clean with a small stainless wire brush and coat with some dielectric type grease. If the floor is still solid where the seat anchors are, like passing the poke test with a sharp screw driver or scratch awl. Grind it down to bare metal and weld new anchors in place. Take measurements and pic's of the measurement first. The inside needs to be cleaned up and dried out. Plain old soap and water and a scrub brush or wire brush will do wonders. Wet vac it to get as much water and crud out. That way you will find all the problem areas and assess whether or not You need a floor pan or partial. If you find that the floor only needs some patch work then ospho or some other brand of phosphoric acid will kill any light rust. just brush it on or spray it let it do it's job. This looks like a great project. Have fun and don't get in a huge hurry, sometimes kicking back with a few brewskies makes you get a brain storm on how to tackle the next step. Either that or too much beer gives a brain fart. "A mans got to Know his limitations" Dirty Harry.....
I was planning on taking the switches all apart and cleaning the grease out and polishing the copper contacts up with an eraser(done this many times in the past works great) advantages of old stuff I guess. I was thinking more of soaking the plugs... don't know yet
 

8pack

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Aug 29, 2007
3,516
Western, MA
Don't have a clue haven't ran the tag yet. Im pretty sure it will handle strait line stuff but I'm worried about it under load chasing cones.

Drive it till it breaks if that is what you are worried about. I doubt it will break.....
 
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Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Got around to pulling the hood off tonight she's locked up tighter than a virgin princess anyone want a 305 lol
IMG_0257.JPG
 

budro6968

Veteran Member
Apr 2, 2016
4,187
Jax Florida
Did you evict your pet rat. I brought home an 85 Riviera that sat for 10 years at my Mom's. When I popped the hood there was a huge opossum sitting in the battery tray with a nice bed of pine needles. Funny thing was I cleaned the engine bay out about 3 months before and was trying to get it running. So that guy moved in after I cleaned house. He made a 20 mile trip from Middleburg FL to Orange park on a flat bed. I went to go get something to poke at him with and he was gone by the time I got back.
 

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
So I bought a Haynes online and it's garbage half the thickness they used to be with no explodeds or anything apparently the chitons are just as bad now. Any body have an exploded view of a 80 so I can pull the front clip off. I'm pretty sure I could figure it out but I'd like the nose as complete as possible. Without having to put a bunch of bolts back in. Thanks
 

Scott51

Veteran Member
Jan 2, 2012
881
New Zealand
there's quite a few exploded diagrams right here http://www.nastyz28.com/camaro/1980pdm.html

Have you thought about pulling all the floor plugs, weatherstrip and trim and giving it few passes with some commercial degreaser and a water blaster? Would make it a hell of a lot easier to see what you're dealing with and nicer to work on.

From the pics you've posted so far I suspect it would also reveal a full tear down, media-blast and epoxy prime is the best way to go.
 

Germs87

Member
Jan 19, 2017
44
Oh ya I've already stated it's getting tore completely down. I'm putting it on a rotisserie so I can do the pans and subframe connectors. I just don't want to many pieces separated less chance to loose it. I'm going to start with the subframe first so I can get the motor, trans,coil overs and brakes mocked up that way that will be 100% when I get the floors fixed. Just can tell jack from that fuzzy picture
 

80sz

sup
Feb 2, 2014
4,084
Buffalo,n.y.
When I disassemble I like to make a card board cut out with a picture drawn and poke the nuts and bolts in it in the corresponding areas with notes . The front isn't to bad. Lube up the perimeter bolts around headlight so they don't all break off. Pain to grind them out and fix .
 

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