78ltmaro
Veteran Member
What would be the best timing i should use on a 350 to get the best hp out of the mid to high range?
Timing Question
- Thread starter 78ltmaro
- Start date
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WAY too many variables to even guess at a safe answer. Typical is 38° total all in by 3000-3200, but that doesn't mean you won't beat holes in your pistons if you try it.
1978LT
Veteran Member
What is your compression and cam specs? Usually 34-38 is optimum, but some like as much as 40 or more.
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archemedes
Veteran Member
only real way to tell is start safe and make small adjustments until performance falls, every engine is a little different
------------------
To err is human; but to really screw things up
requires a computer.
Give blood play hockey!
------------------
To err is human; but to really screw things up
requires a computer.
Give blood play hockey!
Mwilson
Veteran Member
What pistons , cam, heads?
night rider
Veteran Member
Like others have asked.. We need your specs before we can even guess.
too much timing, can mean death to engine if your running high DCR
Not enough timing, can mean poor performance, overheating, etc
For timing, even to guess we need to know cam specs, compression ratio, heads, trans type, converter stall speed if auto, etc
Todays better chamber shapes runs best with less timing. For like a vortec headed engine, it's common to find best power to 30-34* total
But with the older bowl shape chambers, they like more timing to make best power, but how much timing depends on rest of combo. I seen any where from 28-44* used on them. (28* would be for boosted or sprayed engines, and 44* would be for mild compression, big cam, loose converter, etc)
I run 34* total on mine. I would make more power at 36-38*, but I have too much compression, and a cam that don't bleed off enough cyl pressure to run that amount of timing. If I try, she will go into detonation even on 93 octane.
Then you also have at what speed the timing curve starts, and ends.
As a gen rule most performance engines likes total to be fully advanced at 2800-3000 rpm. But this is not set in stone. Each combo is diff and one may ping coming on at 3,000 rpm, where another one don't
too much timing, can mean death to engine if your running high DCR
Not enough timing, can mean poor performance, overheating, etc
For timing, even to guess we need to know cam specs, compression ratio, heads, trans type, converter stall speed if auto, etc
Todays better chamber shapes runs best with less timing. For like a vortec headed engine, it's common to find best power to 30-34* total
But with the older bowl shape chambers, they like more timing to make best power, but how much timing depends on rest of combo. I seen any where from 28-44* used on them. (28* would be for boosted or sprayed engines, and 44* would be for mild compression, big cam, loose converter, etc)
I run 34* total on mine. I would make more power at 36-38*, but I have too much compression, and a cam that don't bleed off enough cyl pressure to run that amount of timing. If I try, she will go into detonation even on 93 octane.
Then you also have at what speed the timing curve starts, and ends.
As a gen rule most performance engines likes total to be fully advanced at 2800-3000 rpm. But this is not set in stone. Each combo is diff and one may ping coming on at 3,000 rpm, where another one don't
1978LT
Veteran Member
Yeah try to get the curve "all in" as soon as you can, without causing problems. But don't get too happy and get it all in any quicker than 2500 cause it can cause a mid range flat spot.
The easiest and ( in the long run, just in case the engine decide's to break down !) cheapest way I've found is to find a shop with a lot of experience on recurving distributor's. I used to build two stroke race motor's with programmable ignition's ( yea, I know it's a totally different animal, but the same prinipal's apply to four stroke's ) and I could'nt believe how much power could be gained by adding or subtracting a degree or two at different RPM level's... and how much power could be lost by being off one or two degree's. Let's say you're engine is making great power to 2500 rpm, then hit's a flat spot to 3500 rpm, then pick's up and make's great power again after 3500 rpm - some of the great power after 3500 rpm is being wasted because of the loss of power between 2500 - 3500 rpm... It's like the engine has to "catch up " . Imagine how much extra power you will have with a proprly "tuned" ignition system. If you think of an how an engine is built, the only "working" part is the valve spring's. Everything else is solid metal, etc along for the ride. Now if you think what make's an engine run, that's pretty much the Carb (fuel system) and Ignition system. Typically, when you change cam and intake part's, this change's the optimum rpm that GM built the ignition (timing ) for - so that should be changed as well. hope this help's
