Welding rear end tubes to differential housing

[theflash]

Oops. Shame on me because I sometimes tell others to use the Search function to find detailed threads.

Thank you everyone for all the great feedback, especially Big_Gear_Head for the link to the previous thread. It was late when I posted, I actually do have a TIG welder, but sounds like it would be insufficient especially for a novice welder like me.

I didn't mean to come off harsh, but I knew there was a very good thread (posted above) about this on this site somewhere.

 

[Kevin Callahan]

mrvedit, my brother and I welded our GM 10 bolt diff housing and attempted to document our steps in the NastyZ28 post that BigGearHead linked above.

We happened to use the TIG process, but MIG wire is available for cast iron if you would prefer that process. The essential part for either TIG or MIG is to clean, preheat, and slowly cool the cast iron diff housing. As BigGearHead stated, welding cast iron is not as straightforward as steel.

Further down the post shown above, (in post #9), I list a supplier of Nickel MIG wire: http://www.techalloy.com/. Since I've never MIG welded cast iron, I don't have much advice for the specifics like amperage, wire feed speed and other items like that.

Looking back, the mechanical peening is probably not required, but wrapping it so that it cools slowly is vital to prevent cracks from uneven cooling (i.e. the axle tubes are much thinner than the housing, and therefore stresses the part right at the weld).

 

[mrvedit]

Thank you everyone for the advice and procedures.

Since it cannot be welded in place, a complete disassembly and removal seems like a huge project. So I have two questions:

* Would it be better to just buy a bare Moser rear end?
Or is a welded 10 bolt stronger?

* And perhaps a really "dumb" question - is it possible to drill holes through the housing and tubes and insert steel dowels?

 

[big gear head]

A Moser housing is stronger in every way. The axle tubes are thicker, the casting is thicker, the bearing caps are thicker, the bearing cap bolts are larger, the tubes are fully welded...

A welded 10 bolt is stronger than a non welded 10 bolt. You could dowel the tubes, but if you mess up and get the holes even .0005 over size then you're in trouble.

I have a few scrap housings that I used to practice welding on. I tried nickel rods and gave up on it. I've been a DOD aircraft certified TIG welder since '87, so I did a much better job welding them that way. I haven't tried MIG with nickel yet, but it would probably be easier than the rods. I never was very good with nickel rods. They are very different from a 7018 or 6010.

 

[pdq67]

If I was to go this far, I'd have a built 9" w/ a Detroit Locker instead.

Or a modified Dana 60.

pdq67

 

[krabben1]

If you can afford to get the Moser,I say do it.But dont pay them to powdercoat it as they are overpriced on it.

 

[kelly70z28]

mrvedit, my brother and I welded our GM 10 bolt diff housing and attempted to document our steps in the NastyZ28 post that BigGearHead linked above.

We happened to use the TIG process, but MIG wire is available for cast iron if you would prefer that process. The essential part for either TIG or MIG is to clean, preheat, and slowly cool the cast iron diff housing. As BigGearHead stated, welding cast iron is not as straightforward as steel.

Further down the post shown above, (in post #9), I list a supplier of Nickel MIG wire: http://www.techalloy.com/. Since I've never MIG welded cast iron, I don't have much advice for the specifics like amperage, wire feed speed and other items like that.

Looking back, the mechanical peening is probably not required, but wrapping it so that it cools slowly is vital to prevent cracks from uneven cooling (i.e. the axle tubes are much thinner than the housing, and therefore stresses the part right at the weld).

i just had a look at the photos of yr car its very cool..