Differential Tooling required?

[Knuckle Dragger]

So no special required to install the carrier shims just a dead-blow hammer?

Hit them wrong with a hammer or punch and they will crack. I was using a wood dowel for a punch on them for a long time but I found an affordable version of this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-56077/make/cadillac That price is whacked, I got one from eBay for under $20. Tap gently the factory ones are cast.

 

[camaro71/holland]

Hit them wrong with a hammer or punch and they will crack. I was using a wood dowel for a punch on them for a long time but I found an affordable version of this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-56077/make/cadillac That price is whacked, I got one from eBay for under $20. Tap gently the factory ones are cast.

That's what I use as well. Got one cheap from Ebay, but you could fabricate one from a pice of steel easily.

 

[badazz81z28]

I would put paint on one of the caps...I don’t like using a punch at all.

Good advice but IMO you can pin-punch mark the caps as long as you stay away from the stress areas, which extend inward from the bolt holes. As long as the punch marks are on the outside area, there is very little stress from the carrier and the pinion forces. Actually, if you look at the photo a significant stress riser is the factory machine cut just in from the bolt towards the bearing diameter. This should be lightly ground to a radius to remove the sharp corners. Again, IMO FWIW.

 

[big gear head]

If you heat the bearings and drop them on be sure to check them with a .001 feeler gauge to be sure that they seated. Sometimes this isn't the best way to install them. I like a press because I can be sure that they are completely seated.

I have a tool that I made for driving in the shims. It's a rod with a piece welded on the end that fits the curve of the shim. This lets me drive the shims in without putting flat spots on them from a hammer or punch.

 

[81LM1]

If you heat the bearings and drop them on be sure to check them with a .001 feeler gauge to be sure that they seated. Sometimes this isn't the best way to install them. I like a press because I can be sure that they are completely seated.

I have a tool that I made for driving in the shims. It's a rod with a piece welded on the end that fits the curve of the shim. This lets me drive the shims in without putting flat spots on them from a hammer or punch.

Do you have a picture of the tool? is this something I can fabricate?

 

[big gear head]

Simple tool

 

[81LM1]

Simple tool

Looks easy to make,

I will trace one of the shims and use it as template, how thick is the tool?

 

[big gear head]

About 3/16 I think.

 

[Fbird]

when heating bearings to install...it is common to use a dead blow hammer with a brass punch to "seat" them. It doesn't take much of a whack....and actually you do NOT want a big WHACK...as it will likely "bounce" back instead of seating.... that is bad. 1 lil "tap" ...should sound SOLID. Shim driver is GREAT.
Another anomaly you may encounter is collapsing the NEW "crush sleeve". Do not bother with the torque wrench on the pinion nut until you actually get the yoke close to finished install depth as a NEW crush sleeve will peg out your torque wrench LONG before you get close. Once the crush sleeve starts "crushing" (IIRC they crush about 3/16") it will get easier and easier. Also since you are NOT changing any shims....make sure to MARK LEFT side carrier ....right side carrier shim (should be 1 solid shim each side...unless carrioer/gears have been changed before)

 

[67johnny]

I rebuilt my 12 bolt last year and wondered why the install kit had 2 crush sleeve in it... soon found out .
The one thing I did want to bring up on this one is to check the pinion yoke sealing surface!
I got lucky with mine but another I did with a friend did not go well.
There may be a speedy sleeve kit if you want to stay original.(maybe someone can confirm)
Replacements yokes are available . Hope you post a pattern!

As a side note... the 12 bolt replacement pinion seal they sent in my kit needed to be shimmed out.
I was lucky to find an OEM GM replacement pinion seal and did not have to make a spacer up.
Have been told its a tough thing to change the seal out correctly if it leaks on ya!
(Think pinion bearing pre-load etc)